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Thread: Brake Pulse/Pad Knock back-Defender

  1. #1
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    Brake Pulse/Pad Knock back-Defender

    Guys having problems with brake pulse in my Defender.

    It only get really bad at higher speeds(above 60kph) and gets to a dangerous level when braking around higher speed right hand corners.

    What can cause pad knock back besides the obvious warped rotor scenario and or loose wheel bearings - both can be ruled out.

  2. #2
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    Loose caliper retaining bolts? Bent stub axle?

  3. #3
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    Hey Big Jon - will check the caliper bolts tonight - both stub axles are new.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhumphri
    Hey Big Jon - will check the caliper bolts tonight - both stub axles are new.
    If the stub axles are new, I don't suppose there is any possibility that one is loose?

    Another possible cause could be oil or brake fluid on part of one disc, but this doesn't explain it being worse on right hand turns.

    Another thought occurs to me - you don't by any chance have the centre diff locked do you?
    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Now what are you doing with your foot on the brake on high speed corners???

    Does the pedal respond to a pump? Pump it up & stop in a straight line - how does that compare to pumping it, turning into said corner, & then stopping in a straight line?

    Two things come to mind with this

    1. I had to take my disco back after service once, brakes were terrible. Transpired that the bearing was sitting on a lip. Tight, but not fully home. Seat it properly & all was well.

    2. My MG has 4 wheel dunlop disc brakes. Brake Pedal has always been inconsistent. Must have checked the wheel bearings 1000 times looking for pad knock off. The answer was axle float in the rear. Its just a 1959 design thing I've got to live with.

    Regards
    Max P

  6. #6
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    <snip>The answer was axle float in the rear. Its just a 1959 design thing I've got to live with.
    ahh, the joys of a semi-floating rear axle and an opposed piston caliper.
    This is where a slider caliper has it over an opposed piston caliper. The slider just floats back and forth with the wandering axle.

  7. #7
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    If you have replaced the stub axles and the bearings recently then check that the bearings are correctly positioned and loaded up...jack up each wheel and see if you get any movement when you rock the wheel backward and forward at 90 degrees to the horizontal.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  8. #8
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    how do you know your discs are not warped....?
    have you checked them since the pad knock back started....?

  9. #9
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    Following work has been done/item checked:

    1. Graeme Coopers recently replaced both stub axles/bearings due to bearing play on both front wheels - have double checked and there is no bearing play at all (the stub axles were worn by offset rims).
    2. There are no fluid leaks near disks/pads.
    3. Coopers also replaced front d/s swivel bearings and checked adjustment of pax side also.
    4. The car has a brand new steering damper on it.
    5. Can find no play in front end at all.
    6. When I said braking into high speed corner I mean very light application - this is where the pulsing/knock back is felt most.
    7. The brake pedal itself is solid and booster checked out OK by Coopers.
    8. Front disks and pads were brand new maybe 3-4 months ago.
    9. Rear disks and pads also new 3-4 months ago.
    10. More for information the front diff was dissassembled last month for new pinion and carrier bearings.

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhumphri
    Following work has been done/item checked:

    1. Graeme Coopers recently replaced both stub axles/bearings due to bearing play on both front wheels - have double checked and there is no bearing play at all (the stub axles were worn by offset rims).
    2. There are no fluid leaks near disks/pads.
    3. Coopers also replaced front d/s swivel bearings and checked adjustment of pax side also.
    4. The car has a brand new steering damper on it.
    5. Can find no play in front end at all.
    6. When I said braking into high speed corner I mean very light application - this is where the pulsing/knock back is felt most.
    7. The brake pedal itself is solid and booster checked out OK by Coopers.
    8. Front disks and pads were brand new maybe 3-4 months ago.
    9. Rear disks and pads also new 3-4 months ago.
    10. More for information the front diff was dissassembled last month for new pinion and carrier bearings.
    I wonder if the effect you are seeing is a vibration in the front axle that is normally insulated from you by suspension bushes etc. but the brake application is giving a solid transmission of the vibration to your foot via the brake fluid.
    Suspects would be the tyre balance and the front prop shaft. In particular, since the prop shaft was probably off when the diff was out, if it came apart at the sliding spline, was it replaced with the two U-joints correctly phased. In this application, this is NOT with the yokes aligned as is normally the case, and this has often been done in error. There should be marks on the sliding joint showing how it should be assembled.
    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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