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Thread: 2002 Defender TD5/10AS Hell

  1. 4th January 2025, 02:54 PM #1
    dr_phibes
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    2002 Defender TD5/10AS Hell

    Hi All,

    I am having a lot of problems with what I think is an immobiliser issue.

    Round One:
    • Modified ECU to disable immobiliser (by rewriting addresses 1EC to 1F1 of 93C66 EEPROM to 0x00) - per Removal of Td5 Immobilizer
    • Ran fine for a few hundred K's
    • Battery failed, replaced with a spare which was getting on, drove fine for a bit more
    • one day failed to start (cranked but with no ignition)
    • went through chain of diagnosis and deploying the parts canon (including a brand new battery, starter, fuel pump, relays, injector seals/washers etc)
    • found that in nanocom injector codes had reset
    • set codes to correct value
    • started easily ONCE and ran for several minutes until I turned off...
    • then failed to restart (cranks, doesn't fire), injector codes had reset
    • nanocom sometimes shows codes as retained, sometimes not
    • no faults or codes
    • No immobiliser indicator on dash, shows as non-robust and immobilised on nanocom


    Round Two:
    • Reinstated 10AS, jumpered wiring so as original
    • Fitted new ECU
    • New fuses for ECU and 10AS
    • Set 10AS to "Australia" setings and then setting as recommended per New Nanocom Evolution News
    • Tried to execute 'learning' mode in Nanocom Engine settings... Reports success but when I check status I get "the ECU is immobilized" on the Nanocom.
    • Still cranks, runs briefly on starter fluid, but doesn't start - convinced injectors aren't firing - will try CSV capture soon
    • When I changed settings these are saved, which I wouldn't have expected if immobilised?


    I haven't tried EKA codes yet as I will need to wire up a door switch to enter it (understand it goes to ground, but need to confirm if it's closed/on when door is open)

    Any ideas?!?

    Thanks
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  2. 4th January 2025, 06:10 PM #2
    dr_phibes
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    I left the ignition in position II for 15m and it ran briefly. I reckon this is how it ran the first time (albeit with my hacked ECU)...

    I have rigged up a switch to the 10AS Driver's door open/close input - taking it that door closed opens the switch, door open closes the switch to ground...

    Enabling the MEMS Failure Indicator in the nanocom causes the immobiliser indicator to flash continuously. I'm assuming that setting won't get in my way.

    I noted the original EKA code as reported by the nanocom for the new ECU. It's a painful sequence to enter using the key (9952).

    If I set to 1111 using the nanocom, and its stored OK, will that apply - even if the ECU is immobilised? I tried it and it didn't make a difference - although I may have been doing the code entry wrong. I assume it should be OK as the EKA code gets stored at the 10AS.

    Whatever I try I can't get the ECU to learn the 10AS code...

    UPDATE... confirming if I leave the ignition in position II for 15m, it will then start and run like a champ. And if I restart, nada.
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  3. 5th January 2025, 09:06 AM #3
    shack
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    The AS10 Is a reasonably unreliable unit.

    Did you cut/disconnect the alarm?
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  4. 5th January 2025, 09:50 AM #4
    dr_phibes
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    The AS10 Is a reasonably unreliable unit.

    Did you cut/disconnect the alarm?
    I did originally (see round 1) - as my goal was to remove it completely.

    I have reconnected it to troubleshoot as I have another ECU where I haven't reprogrammed the 93C66 EEPROM yet to remove the immobiliser.
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  5. 5th January 2025, 10:34 AM #5
    shack
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_phibes View Post
    I did originally (see round 1) - as my goal was to remove it completely.

    I have reconnected it to troubleshoot as I have another ECU where I haven't reprogrammed the 93C66 EEPROM yet to remove the immobiliser.
    I figured you probably had but thought it worth asking.

    I had concocted a flowchart of events in my head that could have happened to explain your issues, but if you removed the alarm it doesn't work.
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  6. 5th January 2025, 10:38 AM #6
    shack
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    Are you sure the fuel pump is running?

    The relay under the drivers seat for it is notorious for bad contacts.

    Have you tried a purge/prime cycle?
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  7. 5th January 2025, 10:50 AM #7
    dr_phibes
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    Are you sure the fuel pump is running?

    The relay under the drivers seat for it is notorious for bad contacts.

    Have you tried a purge/prime cycle?
    Definitely running. Having been over the fuel system front to back as an original suspect I am confident that it’s fine. And I have a pressure gauge so I can see flow at 4.5 bar. I replaced the pump and main relays with Narva ones (with resistor)

    It’s clearly the immobiliser. Every time I leave it for more than 15m she starts. I’m flummoxed by how to get past it without modding my other virginal ECU or repairing the old one as getting nowhere with EKA code. I will try the MEMS application when I get a VAG OBD cable. Apparently it can write to the EEPROM directly.
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  8. 6th January 2025, 01:54 PM #8
    shack
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    It's unusual that the original de-immobilized ECU now won't run, does it need a functioning BCU to start?

    I've not really messed with the defender one, but I'm considering retro fitting a D2 one
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  9. 6th January 2025, 03:40 PM #9
    dr_phibes
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    It's unusual that the original de-immobilized ECU now won't run, does it need a functioning BCU to start?

    I've not really messed with the defender one, but I'm considering retro fitting a D2 one
    The one I am using at the moment has the immo enabled. I haven’t touched the EEPROM on that.

    I think I butchered the EEPROM or resistor on the one I did modify, so it started behaving erratically.
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  10. 6th January 2025, 05:45 PM #10
    shack
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_phibes View Post
    The one I am using at the moment has the immo enabled. I haven’t touched the EEPROM on that.

    I think I butchered the EEPROM or resistor on the one I did modify, so it started behaving erratically.
    Yeah ok, that makes perfect sense.

    Been there done that modding stuff as well!

    If that's the case it's possible the AS10 has died and that's why it won't sync.

    And the original ECU won't work as it's physically damaged.

    All adds up now.

    So you want to the inmo off on the new one?

    What revision ECU is it?

    I'll check if you mentioned it earlier..
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