Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Drop arm ball joint repair kits...

  1. #11
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,521
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    they are not that easy to remove....the only way to get them off without having to belt them too much
    with a sledge hammer is using a 10tonne hydraulic puller.....putting the pressure on.....
    and still having to hit it with a hammer for it to pop.....


    unless of course you are very lucky and it hasnt been put on too tight......
    (but this never happens..... )


    but thanks....i will look into repairing mine rather than replacing it.....definitely a cheaper option......
    I got mine off - with two crowbars as levers with jacks under the ends (lifted the front end nearly off the ground), then gave the side of the arm a belt with a hammer and drift - levers, spacers, and the arm flew in all directions.
    Repairing the ball joint was trivial after that. I believe that it is possible to do in situ, and it is probably easier overall, if you take into account the problems getting the arm off.
    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0

    5.75 quid at Paddocks in the UK

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130
    anyone have any idea if the RTC4198 repair kit is still available ?
    It's superceded a few times & is now RBG000010. LR have 7 in their stock.

    I'd say the UK option is the way to go though if it's the same quality.
    Scott

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    210
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I will need to do this soon. I have the kit and it looks straight forward to do. There is no hole to add a grease nipple in back plate so do I just plaster in as much grease as I can during assembly?
    If the drop arm doesnt come off easily I will use a jack to compress the spring.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    cairns
    Posts
    1,675
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by defenderbilby
    I will need to do this soon. I have the kit and it looks straight forward to do. There is no hole to add a grease nipple in back plate so do I just plaster in as much grease as I can during assembly?
    If the drop arm doesnt come off easily I will use a jack to compress the spring.

    Whan I did mine I found a G clamp did the replacement job quite nicely.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Darwin, NT
    Posts
    62
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse
    It's superceded a few times & is now RBG000010. LR have 7 in their stock.
    Ouch, just got quoted $147 plus freight for that part from my local L/R Dealer. I think I'll go the FWD option unless there is an better quality alternative for similar price.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!