Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: different coolants......

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    SYDNEY -in the shire.....
    Posts
    8,196
    Total Downloaded
    0

    different coolants......

    ok.....who can give me a quick run down on the different coolants on the market.....

    im about to change lurchs coolant and just bought 5 litres of nulon concentrate....the red one.....
    it has enough ethylene glycol and OAT as required by land rover specs.....
    the mix is to be 50/50.....

    the book specifies havoline extended life coolant....at around $15 per litre at caltex.....i chickened out.....
    i need 5 litres......the nulon was $46 for 5 litres.....still too much......but cheaper than caltex....
    besides....they didnt have 5 litres of the stuff anyway.......


    in simple english.....whats the difference between green and red....
    i know green is for older engines with copper/brass radiators.....
    and red for newer engines with alloy radiators....
    but what happens if you use them where you shouldnt....?
    what damage...and how fast.....

    what would happen if i put any ol red coolant in lurch......?

    im sure there are others who would like to know the difference as well.....

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I don't have any real knowledge, but a quick google search suggests that the difference in colour is due to different types of corrosion inhibitors - and also suggests they should NOT be mixed (even in trace amounts, so don't think you can flush the system well enough), as they are likely to stop each other from working.
    But as I understand, your question is whether you can safely use a different coolant of the same colour, and my understanding is yes.
    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    615
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    ok.....who can give me a quick run down on the different coolants on the market.....

    im about to change lurchs coolant and just bought 5 litres of nulon concentrate....the red one.....
    it has enough ethylene glycol and OAT as required by land rover specs.....
    the mix is to be 50/50.....

    the book specifies havoline extended life coolant....at around $15 per litre at caltex.....i chickened out.....
    i need 5 litres......the nulon was $46 for 5 litres.....still too much......but cheaper than caltex....
    besides....they didnt have 5 litres of the stuff anyway.......


    in simple english.....whats the difference between green and red....
    i know green is for older engines with copper/brass radiators.....
    and red for newer engines with alloy radiators....
    but what happens if you use them where you shouldnt....?
    what damage...and how fast.....

    what would happen if i put any ol red coolant in lurch......?

    im sure there are others who would like to know the difference as well.....
    Basically....you CAN use the red in ALL engines.....you MUST use red in modern motors that specify it!

    The red type coolant known as OAT (Organic Acid Technology) carboxylate corrosion inhibitor type is more effective in long term/life [typically 4-5 years] inhibition of corrosion of all types [ i.e. electrolytic, galvanic, and cavitation etc] of corrosion at high temperatres in high aluminium content situations. ......OK? or more info?

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    615
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW
    I don't have any real knowledge,......But as I understand, your question is whether you can safely use a different coolant of the same colour, and my understanding is yes.
    John


    NO!!!! - DON'T MIX DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS PRODUCTS - even if same colour.....they may be OK, but do you wanna be the lab rat that finds out they DON'T????.....high school science class taught me to be very careful of mixing unknown quanta of unknown chemicals....maybe nothing, maybe a big KABOOM or creation of a new inorganic lifeform???

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    SYDNEY -in the shire.....
    Posts
    8,196
    Total Downloaded
    0
    i was mainly wanting to know what would happen if i just use any old red coolant instead of the specified
    havoline coolant......

    i know all about not mixing different coolants....even if they are the same colour....i wont even mix old with new....
    there is an american product
    that claims it can be mixed with any colour coolant....its in a yellow container but i am very sus about it.....
    unless it is just straight ethylene glycol and water and nothing else.....

    i will perform a flush of the cooling system before i change my coolant.....


    and if you have more info i would love to hear it.....you can never know too much.....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Dont change the coolant to a different type/brand other than what was originally in there unless you are going to do a full pressuerised flush out of the system with the appropriate descalers and the rest...

    Different coolants have different chemical properties that dont like each other and will at best just cancel each other out and at worst become corosive

    ... If you have 2 different metals in your cooling system (I'll bet a pink slip that you do) and you get break down of the coolant you will get electrolisys... Bad juju... specially for aluminium components.

    As a minimum if your going to change the coolant to a different brand/spec do at least 3 complete fresh water flushes of the system, not a suck eggs thing but for those who dont know the "bushie flush method"

    1. remove thermostat and replace housing, remove radiator cap
    2. drain system by removing bottom hose and replace hose
    3. remove 1 heater hose and attach garden hose
    4. fill it up and let it over flow out the cap and other heater hose connection till the water is clear
    5. replace cap and heater hose
    6. take it for a drive till its up to temp.
    7. let it cool down and repeat steps 2-6 untill water is clear when you pull the cap.

    Id only do step 7 if I was concerned about scaling in the radiator or block, was changing coolant types or changing brands.

    Yes it uses a lot of water and takes a while but IMHO it beats having holes eaten into parts of your engine where you dont want holes.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Williams West Aust
    Posts
    20,998
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Tony
    I too will need to do my sooner than later.
    I intend running water with a couple of changes over a couple of weeks to ensure a thorough flushing then re filling with an approved coolant.
    We have had big problems at work with coolants in a mixed fleet,mix the wrong ones together and they can become very corrosive.They are changing as many machines as possible over to a single type to avoid future problems.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
    Posts
    30,031
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The problem is (owning a used vehicle) knowing exactly what brand green(or red) has been used.
    Do all LR dealers use the same brand coolant?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Zook, I bought some Caltex coolant two weeks ago, $36/4 litres, and I only paid $27/4 litres at the beiginning of the year (from a different distributor who will now only supply in 20 litre drums )

    OAT coolant has only been used by Land Rover since '98. My Tdi actually came with the stuff, but it was made right at the changeover to the TD5. The Landy dealers I know use a conventional coolant in Tdi's, etc. An interesting thing with OAT and I presume HOAT coolants is that they have a better heat transfer than conventional coolants, falling roughly half way between pure water and a coolant with a conventional anti-corrosion package as the additive package doesn't wholesale coat all internal surfaces, it only acts where corrosion starts.

    When flushing from a conventional to OAT or HOAT(GO5) coolant, use an acid flush (not easy to get these days, most are alkaline, I use a Tectalloy one, and it has to be specially ordered in ) and rinse with fresh water. When mixing your coolant and water, use pure water if possible, eg. go to Woollies and buy a 10l container of Bells or Nobles Pure water. You don't want any minerals in there to fight against the add package before it gets a go at any corrosion.
    Last edited by rick130; 11th September 2006 at 06:18 AM.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!