sudden problems with V8 110

jasper110 · 22nd September 2006, 12:25 AM

hi,
2 weeks ago i changed the dist cap and rotor arm for o.e as the 110 was coughing and spluttering a little on lpg at low revs. it ran beautifully until today.

400 miles later i drive a couple of miles, stop, continue my journey after approx 15 mins, round a corner up a slight hill and cough splutter jump. i drive this hill nearly every day in 3rd no probs.

so i get home. try it on petrol and its the same. am i now right in ruling out fuel as the problem?

it's now 2 hours later i've checked all i can, leads/plugs and i've swapped the cap and rotor arm for another, i've also swapped the coil. the problem still exists.

if i put it in second give it revs and try to get her to pull up the driveway, there is a slight almost electrical crackling noise. (hard to tell)

i'm stumped now and have booked it into the garage telling them, i have some sort of ignition problem.

what do you think it could be?? all thats left is the ignition amp and the dizzy itself.

thanks for any help.

**camel_landy** · 22nd September 2006, 05:14 AM

Couple of things to check:

1 - Points? If it's non-electronic ignition, check the points & make sure they're OK. Also, make sure that the gap is correct & use a 12v lamp to check the continuity as you crank the engine (i.e. make sure it flashes to show that the points are working.

2 - HT Leads... The V8 is very fussy about the condition of the leads. Consider getting a new set.

Finally... When you changed the rotor, did it come off cleanly or did it need a good yank? If it's the latter then don't rule out the dizzy being damaged!

HTH

M

Andy_B · 22nd September 2006, 07:02 AM

Something happened to me when I was leaving a LandRover mechanic to make an appointment, he found the the problem and said it was a vaccum problem from the air-intake.

Andy

**101RRS** · 22nd September 2006, 12:33 PM

If the ignition is electronic then the ignition module on the side of the dist could be cooked.

I know you have changed the rotor - but double check - aftermarket rotors fail after a short period so stay with genuine.

Gazzz

jasper110 · 22nd September 2006, 04:50 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

If the ignition is electronic then the ignition module on the side of the dist could be cooked.

I know you have changed the rotor - but double check - aftermarket rotors fail after a short period so stay with genuine.

Gazzz

yes it is an electronic dizzy but has the amp behind the coil. its also a genuine rotor arm. the leads are magnecor.

it wasn't a gradual failure,but went from good to bad in an instant.

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 22nd September 2006, 06:40 PM

if anyone close by has something with the same engine.....
maybe you could swap bits out one at a time till you find the problem........?

otherwise.....check all earths.....especially on the amp and coil.......also the earth strap to the engine......
this is assuming that the leads were all ok as camel landy said above......

how did you test the leads....?
you should have about 6-8,000 ohms resistance per foot........

**Bigbjorn** · 18th November 2006, 12:23 PM

Does it stop suddenly and can then be restarted after, quite literally, a cool down period? If so it is an electronic problem and your box of tricks is undergoing progressive failure. The failures will become more frequent and longer lasting until it quits altogether. This is one of the classic electronic failures. Another one is the bloody things just stop working, suddenly, forever & ever. This is why I now drive a mechanical injection diesel.

**Michael2** · 18th November 2006, 12:53 PM

EFI or Carby V8?

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