Thread: Convert RR+Disco Wheel Bearings to Oil Lubed?

No you're not imagining things - this subject has often been discussed on this forum. do a search on 'wheel bearings' and you will find a few of them.
But just to reiterate;
Greased wheel bearings will always give trouble. I and a number of colleagues have experienced contamination leading to destroyed bearings - due mainly to the fact that the 'oil seal' fitted is actually a 'grease wiper' and as such does not have any garter springs at all. So a temporary fix is to replace the 'grease wiper' with an oil seal - the one I recommend is standard from an early Rangie and has a double lip and a garter spring on each.
A better fix is to:

• Remove the small axle oil seal
• Drill a 3mm hole on the underside of the stub axle between where the bearings locate - this allows/ensures that oil will reach both bearings easier than if it has to pass through the outer one in order to reach the iner one.
• Replace the grease wiper with the double lipped oil seal (Corteco P/N 15510067 or Rover P/N RTC3511 <A>)as mentioned above.
• Pre oil (with diff oil) bearings on assembly.
• Ensure that rubber cap on Driving member is in good condition - replace if not or seal on with silicon.
• Top up oil in diff (and swivel pin housings [CV joints] if doing front hubs) and check after 100kms or so - after oil has had time to work its way into the hubs.

This is actually a return to the Series method of wheel bearing lubrication and has been successfully done by myself and friends on a number of Discos and Defenders without any further wheel bearing troubles. The only thing you have to watch is that the oil seal surface is in good condition (fit a stainless steel 'Speedie Sleeve' if surface is badly scored) and seal is fitted correctly.
Another advantage of running bearings in oil is that any fault/leak is easily noticed and can be attended to before major problems occur.

Happy motoring
Roger

Originally Posted by Xtreme

No you're not imagining things - this subject has often been discussed on this forum. do a search on 'wheel bearings' and you will find a few of them.
But just to reiterate;
Greased wheel bearings will always give trouble. I and a number of colleagues have experienced contamination leading to destroyed bearings - due mainly to the fact that the 'oil seal' fitted is actually a 'grease wiper' and as such does not have any garter springs at all. So a temporary fix is to replace the 'grease wiper' with an oil seal - the one I recommend is standard from an early Rangie and has a double lip and a garter spring on each.
A better fix is to:

• Remove the small axle oil seal
• Drill a 3mm hole on the underside of the stub axle between where the bearings locate - this allows/ensures that oil will reach both bearings easier than if it has to pass through the outer one in order to reach the iner one.
• Replace the grease wiper with the double lipped oil seal (Corteco P/N 15510067 or Rover P/N RTC3511 <A>)as mentioned above.
• Pre oil (with diff oil) bearings on assembly.
• Ensure that rubber cap on Driving member is in good condition - replace if not or seal on with silicon.
• Top up oil in diff (and swivel pin housings [CV joints] if doing front hubs) and check after 100kms or so - after oil has had time to work its way into the hubs.

This is actually a return to the Series method of wheel bearing lubrication and has been successfully done by myself and friends on a number of Discos and Defenders without any further wheel bearing troubles. The only thing you have to watch is that the oil seal surface is in good condition (fit a stainless steel 'Speedie Sleeve' if surface is badly scored) and seal is fitted correctly.
Another advantage of running bearings in oil is that any fault/leak is easily noticed and can be attended to before major problems occur.

Happy motoring
Roger

Excellent! thanks!....just a coupla Q's -

(1) So this method can be used on rear wheel bearings too? looks to be so, from what you say

(2)Can this be done on RR P38a's [and thus, Disco2's] also? What vehicles can this modification be made to? Obviously, RR Classics, Disco 1's.... all Defenders?

I've not had experience with Disco II's or RR's but believe that the Disco II hub/bearings/seal set up is a sealed unit & if trouble is experienced then replacement of complete hub assy. is required.

But certainly conversion can be done an all Disco I's and all Defenders. Xtremes have a single use hub nut with locking device incorporated - it is wise to replase this with the old double nut with locking washer as in early Defenders and all Series Landies.

Roger

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Drill a 3mm hole on the underside of the stub axle between where the bearings locate - this allows/ensures that oil will reach both bearings easier than if it has to pass through the outer one in order to reach the iner one.

hey extreme

i hope i didn't miss a step when i installed my maxi axles as i didn't drill a hole in the stub axle, i did pack the bearing with grease so they were lubed until the oil got there

should i drill the hole when i next have them apart??

Originally Posted by Xtreme

I've not had experience with Disco II's or RR's but believe that the Disco II hub/bearings/seal set up is a sealed unit & if trouble is experienced then replacement of complete hub assy. is required.

But certainly conversion can be done an all Disco I's and all Defenders. Xtremes have a single use hub nut with locking device incorporated - it is wise to replase this with the old double nut with locking washer as in early Defenders and all Series Landies.

Roger

OK...Disco 1's are same as RR Classics and Disco 2's are same as RR P38a's

"i did pack the bearing with grease so they were lubed until the oil got there" - QUOTE

Ordinary wheel bearing grease is a thick high temperature type and it resists being dislodged very well....probably best to use Molybdenum Disulphide grease [molygrease/Molybond/assembly grease/cam grease etc] which gives excellent lubrication, especially initially, but will mix with the gear oil without any problems.

In fact some people mix it in with the oil in Swivel Spheres as it can still be drained out and renewed - unlike the solid grease packs often used.

Originally Posted by weeds

hey extreme

i hope i didn't miss a step when i installed my maxi axles as i didn't drill a hole in the stub axle, i did pack the bearing with grease so they were lubed until the oil got there

should i drill the hole when i next have them apart??

G'day Kelvin,

The drilling of the hole in the stub axle is not absolutely necessary - I just feel that it enables a more direct feed for the oil to get to the inner bearing upon ititial assembly. I always coat the bearings in oil as I'm assembling anyway and have never had a problem.
You really need to remove the stub axle in order to drill the hole and ensure that no swarf gets into the axle housing.

Roger

dontyou have to remove the stubb axle anyway to remove the inner seal if converting to oil feed bearings