When I did mine, I was told "easier to remove engine". Certainly didn't take very long.
Martyn
The clutch in my 79 Rangie has pooped itself.
Is it better/easier to remove the:
a) gearbox (4sp)
b) engine (P76)
When I did mine, I was told "easier to remove engine". Certainly didn't take very long.
Martyn
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
if you are doing it on the floor......its safer to remove the engine.....
than it is to lie under the transfer and box and try to remove them.....
whichever path you take....just make sure to change the spigot bearing as well......
also.....in the current 4WD monthly....roothy has some good tips on clutch replacement.......
Why would you be under it? gearbox comes out through the passenger door. With an engine lifter it's a one man job. Worst bit it removing the seats....a real pain.
I'll second that, spigot bush was the problem with mine - it had migrated out of the flywheel and mushroomed on the end allowing the clutch to run out. Clutch itself was perfectly serviceable,Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
Borg & Beck -- $360 in 1986, REPCO was somewhere around $600 IIRC
Martyn
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
Well what a job!
Decided to remove the engine, just so I could give a good clean while it was out.
What a painful job.
I don't work too quickly these days, and it took about 7 hours over 2 days.
Quite a few obstacles along the way.
Did a few things the hard way.
Getting the bellhousing bolts out is quite a challenge.
Had to remove the front tailshaft to allow ratchet space.
I've never seen so much oily greasy sludge.
Anyway it's out.
The pressure plate is fine.
The throwout bearing is absolutely R00TED.
Hopefully it will be quicker to install.
A Mate pulled his motor out twice in a 83 Rangie, he pulled the radiator support panel out that way we could just wheel in the engine lift and slide the motor straight out the front, wasnt too bad if I remember rightly
Whether or not I pulled the radiator support panel out or not made no difference.
In fact it would have added to the time.
My engine crane lifts high enough to get the engine over the panel.
The radiator had to come out to allow the engine to move forward.
Air cond condensor and oil cooler were left untouched.
Fiddled with the butcherous wiring for a while.
The oil cooler lines gave me a bit of grief.
Air cond compressor was also time consuming.
Actually most things took longer than I expected.
Maybe I'm getting slow in my old age![]()
(oh, and I have a few aches, but not cuts - only a few scatches, and a sore finger that got bashed somewhere along the line)
Mate if you have a hoist stick it through one of the doors and lift the g/box out and down onto the ground, then reverse the proceedure.Way quicker and easier than removing the engine IMO. Have done it with LT95 and R380.
Regards Justin
Moving engine forward a few inches is much easier than undoing everything to remove the g/box, to acees bellhousing bolts just remove the engine mounts and lower the engine down and you can then reach the top bolts from the engine bay.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
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