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Thread: Brake Pads for RR Classic

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Rosevale, Qld (south of the 'Switch)
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    Brake Pads for RR Classic

    Need to change the rear brake rotors and pads on my 1981 Rangie and am after pad recommendations. I have the rotors already.

    I will probably do the bearings at the same time as doing the rotors as I don't know when they were last replaced. Anything else I should replace with new while I'm down there? Any tips on what to look out for? I had the front's done by a mechanic but the $$$ are tight now andcan't afford the $500+ the front ones cost me!

    TIA,

    Stu
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  2. #2
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    That is a lot of $$$

    I would have thought the pads and rotors should cost about $250 + labour.

    While people are answering your question I would love to hear whether they think vented or solid discs are better, solid being the standard on the old Rangies.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    That $500 includes replacing bearings too.....<shrug>
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
    http://www.monarchist.org.au/

  4. #4
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    Bayswater, Melbourne
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    I have been using Bendix 4wd pads for years now. They give a good balance between wear and bite. Some pads bite better but wear out too fast. I get 12 months from the Bendix, about 6 from the ones that provide more braking power. They should cost around $45.00 trade from a brake shop.

    As for the question from Adam about vented rotors. I would say that vented would have to be better and am annoyed that I did not convert mine to vented when I did the rotors etc a few years ago. I regularly run out of front brakes on long down hills on the bitumen. Mt Dande to Ferntree Gully run for example.

    Ian

  5. #5
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    SYDNEY -in the shire.....
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    for your rear brakes....solid rotors are fine......and cheaper......
    the front brakes are your main brakes........






    soft compound pads will wear quicker but also brake better.......
    harder pads will last longer and take longer to fade......but will chew out the rotors quicker.....

    pads are a lot cheaper....faster....easier to change than rotors.....
    i would rather change an extra set of pads or two than have to change rotors.....

  6. #6
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    Newcastle Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by amtravic1
    I get 12 months from the Bendix, about 6 from the ones that provide more braking power.
    You must be a very late braker or do an extreme amount of km per year.
    I put a set of bendix pads on 4 years ago, and there is still plenty of pad left.

    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    the front brakes are your main brakes........
    Yep. Just had the pink slip done on the 80 RR, and the tester showed 88% force front, 12% force rear.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    [COLOR=blue
    the front brakes are your main brakes........[/COLOR]

    pads are a lot cheaper....faster....easier to change than rotors.....
    i would rather change an extra set of pads or two than have to change rotors.....
    Front brakes do most of the work coz of the PROPORTIONING VALVE fitted to ALL RR Classics and Discos WITHOUT ABS ......I'm just not sure about application in other LR products, but can't see why not!

    Pads are cheap n easy to change .....but try and avoid metallic pads - they really rip up your dsics!

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