Thread: Cost to rebuild an S3 2.6L motor??

G'day OldDog
If you are looking at picking up a 4 cyl wrecked/rusted either 2/2a or 3, try to pick one with a good G/box too, as then you will have the bellhousing, 2 bolt starter motor as well, the 2/2a box is a stronger unit than the 3 even if it is crash on 1 and 2 with syncro 3 & 4 ALL the gearbox/transfer casings are the same in diamentions and mounting, so you can use your existing 6 cyl T/shafts the main changes to the chassis were the eng mounts and the firewall


Here are some specs from my stripped 4cyl chassis 2a,

Rear face of front X-member to centre of Mounting Bolt Hole L/H side == 14 3/8 inches == 365 mm


Rear face of front X-member to front edge of R/H mounting bolt hole(large hole) == 14 1/16 inches ==358 mm on the 4cylinder chassis that I have it has the Battery carrier mounted there with one carrier leg welded to the mounting, so there may be a need for modding of it. some SWB's & LWB's had there batteries mounted under the P/side seat pad, but if yours was ex -army it would have the B/box up front

The starter motors are basically the same, but the 6 had a lucas M418G or in some cases a 2M100 Aust made one (Vert Commutator) if you are lucky you might have a M45G (usually fitted to diesels) they had real grunt, the only difference in them is the End Plates, which can be changed over, and parts that are needed can be sourced from K.B. Classic Spares here in Qld


Hope that is of some help.


cheers

G'day Dennis, Yeah i havn't been about too much lately, i sem to have had one of "those" years for mishaps
I think this 2.25 idea is just the thing, and i can probably find a wreck with everything in it off fleabay!
Thanks for the dimensions Uncle, my truck has all the front sheet metal stripped off it so it was easy to measure that up, it should be relatively pain free i think.

Bill