My first thoughts would be too heavy a spring as well.....assuming your shocks and springs are all matched properly and are the correct lengths for the vehicle.
Firstly, don't fret, Felix isn't as close as the pic looks, and it's chocked, but still a bit silly![]()
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I should get better travel in the front than that, but I can't work out how. My rears fully compress, but the fronts (same thickness springs,) go no where near full travel before raising a wheel. The shocks aren't ANYWHERE near compressed, nor the springs, and the bumpstops are 2 inches from hitting.
I cant go softer springs on front coz the weight already sags more than I'd like. ( suppose i could go softer & longer, but am short on $)
Any suggestions anyone?![]()
(Other than longer softer springs/shocks..it's close to binding up the drive shaft coupling when unweighted as it is, and I'm not buying one of those fancy double link deallies.
The front springs are Ironman rear RR's and the same diametre as stockies, but about 2" longer
I've had friend look at it, and we can't see anything stoppng travel other than the spring being too heavy.
Open to other suggestions.
My Dad just fitted Ironman Springs and Shocks to his 87 Hiline and it will lift a front wheel long before going to full compression on the springs, and it will also lift a wheel in spots where my rangie (83 Model) with lovells and bilstiens doesn't. (none have sway bars)
I did a real mix'n'match, rr rears on front, nissans on rear, both shocks were bought to match springs, but rears are now eye/eye with adapters to the twist will be less likely to snap off the original pins.Originally Posted by rangie83
I would have to go substantiallt longer on front if going softer, coz they are so weighty up front.
Hopefull someone out there has the right lenghts and weights to save me buying the wrong ones a second time round![]()
Did you try doing a search for spring information on the forum? There is lots of information here, just a matter of finding it!
Disconnect the shocks on the front and see if it changes anything. Most likely the problem is either that the radius arm bushes are limiting travel (to fix that you need some holey bushes from Sam at Haultech), or your springs are too stiff - or both.
Silly question, but do you still have the anti-roll bars in?
I'm pretty sure 130s come with them at both ends.
Cheers,
Simon
Um, is that different to sway bars?Originally Posted by abaddonxi
Rears don't limit travel and fronts currently have a snapped mount, so not doing anything![]()
There used to be a lot of info on outer limits about this.
The radius arms are arranged to bind, they act as something of an antiroll bar. The geometry also provides a bit of antidive under brakes.
So the first thing to cure is binding bushes. Have you got rubber or poly bushes in there? Poly bushes will explain the really limited travel you have.
Try the Haultech slotted bushes. That frees up the front end up a lot. At the expense of some roll in the front around slow corners.
Next thing thats hits is the shocks. As others have said, 80 series landcrushers bolt in, and have similar valving. But different brands have different lengths. You might need to lift the top mount to stop it topping out on full compression.
Then the bushes will bind again, but the flex should by now be vastly improved.
Only disadvantage is the Hautech bushes don't last very long, don't like corrugations. I get about a year out of a set. Bu they aren't very expensive.
Regards
Max P
Yeah, them things.
Pretty sure they do restrict articulation, from what I've heard.
Cheers,
Simon.
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