Thread: Cylinder head bolt help

Find a large 1/2" breaker bar, and a bit of pipe. Use only a single hex socket
and an extension bar long enough to reach past the edge of the brake booster on the drivers side, I sometimes have to use an impact rated universal joint also. This is a two person job. one to hold the bar and socket in line and connected to bolt head, and the other to swing on the pipe. These are tight on this model V8.

Good luck, and remember you only get one chance, if you round off the bolt head you will be pulling the engine.
Yes, these are two of the worst bolts on a Disco or Rangie to undo.

JC

If you can get one, get a solid Right angle bar and a single hex socket add one 5 foot extention bar and a helper, you will also need a wet rag a butane torch and a knockometer.

Gently warm up the effected area with the butane torch (hot air gun or wifes hair drier will also work) apply the wet rag ontop of the area briefly trying not to get it on the head as much as possable then

use the single hex socket on the bolt and the bar assist on the solid right angle bar then apply some friendly persuasion to the top of the bar with the knock o meter.

repeat as required,

If you dont get any joy after the first couple of times let the thing soak in inox/penetrene/wd40 then have another go with the heat but dont use a flame.

Alternatively leave the block parked in the sun for half a day.. worked a treat on a lazer head

IMHO if you have a decent electric rattler the cheap bunnings/supercheap one will not shift it either and you do not want to goto 3/4 drive as a rattler that big will either snap the bolt or strip out the threads...

It is, however, a good excuse to go and buy the compressor and air ratchet as opposed to the rattle gun, you'll appreciate it more than the rattler when it comes to assembly.

For $89 or less get the supercrap air tool kit, it has the air wrench, rattler, air chisel and other fittings.

I would agree with the breaker bar. Impact wrench is to likely to strip the bolt. For my TD5 I bought a decent beaker bar as I bent the small one I had.

Originally Posted by George130

I would agree with the breaker bar. Impact wrench is to likely to strip the bolt. For my TD5 I bought a decent beaker bar as I bent the small one I had.

I wouldnt be so worried about stripping the bolt out.. a stripped bolt can be pried out and the crud in the block massaged abit to get it out.... Go the other way tho and strip the block, ya gottat get the drill out, the helicoil kit, then get the engine to a point where you can drill it and get the hole drilled square....

when you put em back together coat the bolts threads only with silver grease so that a, you get an accurate torque reading on assembly and b, can get em out easier in the future.

Thanks guys.
I have tried today as follows,
soaked with WD40 for few hours, used heat gun (modified output not to heat cylinder block) then tried solid 1m breaker + 1m extention called friend to swing it.
16mm hex socket has broken (cracked) at first and the bolt slipped at second and third time.
Used air impact wrench borrowed from friend then it made the bolt more rounded.
Now what?
I do not have space taking out engine (I have taken out Alfa Romeo spider 4 cylinder engine in same garage before but not a Disco V8 engine because of the height)
I guess putting everything back again taking it to the garage asking undo 2 bolts...

your down to locking pliers and vice grips now...

all my advanced butchering needs more access.

you could also try hammering an undersize socket on and then re-enforcing it with heavy duty hose clamps.

if you have enough room to lift the heads off you could grind the tops off the bolts...

or try doing em up till they snap...

good luck