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Thread: Oil Under My Clutch Peddle

  1. 3rd November 2006, 02:02 PM #1
    Cameron_Def's Avatar
    Cameron_Def
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    Oil Under My Clutch Peddle

    It seems my 110 has wanted to drip some drips!

    I noticed some of the dirt in the drivers footwell was wet, and looking at it, it looks like (clear) smells like (nothing) and has a oily slick...

    I am guessing my clutch master cylinder must be leaking ...

    Is this a common issue, what should I do to fix it, or do I have to replace ..?

    If a replacement is the only way.. what cost am I looking at ?
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  2. 3rd November 2006, 02:12 PM #2
    drover81
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    Common - yes

    Fix - depends on the root cause - could be seals, could be the cylinder, but generally, you can get it S/S re-sleeved pretty cheap and new seals, it should then last longer than the original... or replace with another (there's a cheap non- OEM alternative out there - have a search through the forums and you'll find it!)

    From memory, I think you're looking at about $30-50 if you do it yourself.

    Ensure that when you refit the cylinder that the distance between the pedal and the floor is 140mm. Ensures the piston is pushing straight on the cylinder.

    Cheers
    Current: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
    Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
    Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
    Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
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  3. 3rd November 2006, 02:12 PM #3
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    Leaking primary clutch master cylinder seal...

    3 options depending on your capability

    1. pay for replacement and installation $250ish for labour (blacklocks costing quote for my warrenty replacement) + the parts
    2. buy replacement and self install $50ish for non genuine
    3. if its in good nick otherwise pull it, stip it and replace said seal. (bout $10)

    Im on my 4th clutch master now..... when the warentee goes out Im going after market.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. 3rd November 2006, 02:13 PM #4
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    i put a kit through mine as it had already been sleeved
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  5. 3rd November 2006, 03:00 PM #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    Leaking primary clutch master cylinder seal...

    3 options depending on your capability

    1. pay for replacement and installation $250ish for labour (blacklocks costing quote for my warrenty replacement) + the parts
    2. buy replacement and self install $50ish for non genuine
    3. if its in good nick otherwise pull it, stip it and replace said seal. (bout $10)

    Im on my 4th clutch master now..... when the warentee goes out Im going after market.
    Who / what do you recommend as "After Market" ?

    Can I just go to PEPs or someone like that to get a new seal or complete unit, or should I do what I dread and walk into a LR dealer ?




    PS - Thanks for everyones replies!
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  6. 3rd November 2006, 03:15 PM #6
    tdi130dualcab's Avatar
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    Like the others said (I'm on my 5th)

    Last one I went to a break and clutch place and had it re-kitted.

    cost me approx $100 for them to do the job (incl remove and refit to vehicle)

    They inspected to cylinder and said it was perfect, just the seals had colapsed.

    I Havn't checked, but previously on the forum it has been mentioned that they are the same master cylynder as used on hydrolic trailer breaks.

    Cheers
    Andrew
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  7. 3rd November 2006, 03:44 PM #7
    drover81
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    any brake/clutch place worth their salt should have the seals available. They'll be able to do the resleeving too!

    avoid the LR dealer!
    Current: ‘16 Disco Sport (7seater) aka « Family Bus 2 »
    Sadly Gone: '77 RRC 2 Door aka "Beast"
    Gone: '92 RRC Vogue SE aka "The Family Bus"
    Long Gone: '99 Td5 Defender aka "The TANK!"
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  8. 3rd November 2006, 06:23 PM #8
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    The one out of a 110 perentine or 6x6.... but theyre a little harder to get hold of now... (bloody tightwad quies )

    take the existing master out and take it to a trailer suppliers I'll bet they can get you a master cylinder for a trailer brake that will fit nicely at about 1/4 of the genuine price.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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  9. 3rd November 2006, 06:25 PM #9
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    If theres nothing wrong with the cylinder, the seal kit should set you back around $10 - $12.

    Martyn
    1998 Defender
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  10. 3rd November 2006, 07:59 PM #10
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    buy a complete replacement and a reseal kit - put the new one in - rekit the old one in your spare time and store as ready for next time - there will be a next time as the vehicles last.

    chris
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