Thread: Disco 1 300Tdi gets hot when towing up hills.

I had a similar problem when not towing. On 35-40deg days, the temp gauge would rise if I drove over 100kph. Rodding the core was the answer as 1/3 of it was blocked. I will now have it done every time I flush the coolant.

You dont have to replace it with a new one if its ok, give it a clean and re-insert it....


assuming of course your willing enough to pull the plastic one out....

FWIW, a big advantage with using OAT coolant (a la the TD5) is that there is NO silicate dropout to block the internals.

My brother had this problem on his old Disco, turned out to be the hoses. When the motor was under load the pressure would suck the hoses in restricting the coolant flow. I know you said you have replaced the hoses, but how long ago? and you may have got a faulty one.
Hope this helps. Cheers Tyrepower

Thanks guys for all the info.

My disco has done 262 000 kms and the radiator looks like it has never been touched.

I suppose it is due!!

I have her booked in for a rodding (sounds rude!) on Thursday and will go from there. I hope that is the problem as all the other jobs sound much more expensive.

I will post the results when I get them.

Cheers

Sean

PS Tyrepower, I have had the hoses replace before my July ski trip. That's cheap insurance compared to a rebuild.!!

i took my recent acquisition (95 disco V 8) on its first trip yesterday up Teewah through to Inskip Pt to suss out any weaknesses and found a couple.

1. i have noticed that she idles nicely on the driveway but after a short run it tends to hunt while at lights with foot on brakes and in drive.
after a workout yesterday it wanted to stall each time before i put her into drive , so after about 10 conk-outs , i adjusted up the throttle speed to compensate , is there an idle adjustment or does the on board computer get a headacke with higher revs and lower speed when chewing through soft sand and lose the plot?

2. ran ok most of day driving through mostly soft sand as it had just turned high tide and not a lot of hard sand to drive on, had a few breaks to give the pooch a run, then got my future daughter in law to take the wheel, she is Spanish and driving a 4 wd on a beach is extremely daunting . after about 15 minutes crawling along she was doing ok , feeling smug and SPLOOSH........clouds of steam belched out from under the bonnet. son and i lifted bonnet to find boiling water and steam p1ssing out of the reservoir cap...my first thought was .shiiite ..cracked heads !!!

anyway after letting it cool a tad , we ran the engine and trickled water into it slowly until she was full.

a quick dash to Freshwater and a checkout..no leaking water , no horrible knocks or misses........sweet.

no more troubles all the way home and no loss of water.

i suspect the cap is dodgy as i let her idle this morning and turneds her off.........heard just the faintest whisper , so i grabbed a rag and held it around the cap and it stopped..

so im assuming and going for the least painful option first up and replace the pressure cap and see how it goes .

3 i noticed that the electric fan was running even with the key turned off, and continued aven after i removed the key altogether.....is the cooling fan wired independent and can run on it lonesome (it did stop when the new water was added)..seems strange is this normal , ..a quaint pommie quirk ..or has the previous owner been tinkering ??

also , im thinking of getting an infrared thermometer as i dont trust the temp guage (it gave no warning) what is the accepted oerating temp range for the engine and where is the best location to check the temp with the infra red..........water pump, engine block, radiator??

thanks in advance

Update Guys....

I had the radiator rodded at a highly regarded specialist. During the process I get a phone call.

The core was 40% blocked internally and 10% blocked externally and some of the fins were rotten. Didn't look too bad to me but I am no radiator specialist... so the suggestion was I could put it back in a he stated that it wouldn't overheat but I might only get 12 months out of it.. or recore it.

$809 for a new core (aftermarket at that) ouch!

I suppose this is cheaper than an engine rebuild, but comes a month after replacing a vacuum pump. This better be it for a while.

PS: The radiator guys said my auto fluid was black at the cooler when they disconnected the pipes, but the fluid on the dipstick is a lovely pink colour. Any ideas..

Cheers
all

Sjd70

Originally Posted by sjd70

Update Guys....
a month after replacing a vacuum pump. This better be it for a while.

PS: The radiator guys said my auto fluid was black at the cooler when they disconnected the pipes, but the fluid on the dipstick is a lovely pink colour. Any ideas..

Cheers
all

Sjd70

You have a dipstick for the auto ????