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Thread: TD5 oil pump bolt thread.

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Brookfield Melb. Victoria Australia
    Posts
    527
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    Hi
    Just finished doing mine, a 2002 discovery. Was a **** of a job but thanks to everyone here I managed. After getting the sump of I rolled over and grabbed the only 10 mm spanner in reach, the smallest one in the tool box about 75mm longput spanner on bolt applied minimal pressure with little finger. This was enough to loosen the bolt.

    I was then able to undo it all the way out with fingers. So it was not tight and once out had no loctite.

    NOT IMPRESSED

    I cleaned everything up, the thread on the engine with contact cleaner and cotten buds applied the primer then the loctite tensioned it up and added a bit more to make shure.

    The hard bit was keeping the gasket in place when putting it back togeather after several attempts I got six zip ties and zip tied the gasket to the sump through the bolt holes and the gasket in easy to get to places. I then put enough bolts loosely in the unzip tied holes to hold the gasket in place cut the zip ties and put the rest of the bolts in. All back togeather and touch wood no leaks.

    As previously mentioned in this thread my power steering hose was rubbing on the engine so I used zip ties and an old radiator hose cut to fit to stop it wearing through.

    Another thing to note is the early Rave Cd does not mention the application of a sealent to 3 spots on the engine prior to reassembling and do not show a sequence for undoing the 20 sump bolts the later ones do.

    I for one would like to see all of this thread passed onto Land Rover in writing and to the people in the UK who are doing the class action, This should have been a recall, how many are still out there about to self distruct.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ramingining, Arnhem Land
    Posts
    121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franz View Post

    I commenced reassembly and could not get the sump back on. The bottom right hand side kept snagging and the sump refused to play ball.
    Did mine a month ago and found a ratchet strap handy to run around the left hand side chassis rail, then around the exhaust pipe- a gentle tension pulled the exhaust pipe out of the way that little bit and made refitting the sump a bit easier. The other thing i found helpful was to insert the the 4 longer bolts at the rear of the sump and get them finger tight before inserting the other bolts- made locating the sump & gasket a bit easier as the gasket is pretty manouverable during refit and you can see what is going on except for the rear part that bolts to the bell housing.

    For the record, my 03 d2a's bolt was tight and was loctited, I cleaned it up and refitted it with loctite 262. Nice feeling to know it's secure

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    home at last - Port Macquarie NSW
    Posts
    1,271
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    did my 2nd car today.
    2000 TD5 with 300,000 k's. bolt was able to be undone with a 1.4 drive ratchet and not too much effort. lucky i recokon as the owner i recently bought it from said it had never been cjecked so 300,000klms is not bad i reckon.

    also, a tip for ppl, put some zippy ties through the sump and sump gasket holes every 2nd or 3rd hole to locate the gasket. finger tighten the other bolts, then cut off the zip ties and insert the missing bolts and i had absolutely no issue lining up the new gasket.


  4. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    brisbane , QLD
    Posts
    65
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    yesterday dad and I did both our td5's one is a 2000 with 190k the other 2003 with 98k both had no sign of loctite on both vehicles but bolts were firm (not 25nm thats for sure but not loose). least now we know theres loctite on them now

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