Thread: Alarm remote repair - conductive glue question

best of british mate..... sounds like a nice little job....

i have a similar task to undertake tomorrow on a laptop that has been dropped.....

Hi Scouse,

When they solder surface mounted circuit boards in the factory, they glue the components on and add some pre-fluxed solder paste to the joints. Then the while assembly goes into an oven to "solder" the joints.

You can get soldering irons (I have one) with really fine tips... Less than a millmetre, for reworking the joints. They can be soldered with lots of patience.

Good luck going down the conductive glue avenue! The component probably came off when the remote was dropped

Cheers,
Mick.

Double sided metal foil roll, we use it for holding probes/sensors and the like to trasmit heat and signals.

Might do the job.

I have a large roll of the single sided stuf here that could be used - happy to send you som

Thanks Mick, there's no way I can solder this as the block sits flush on the board so your description of the glue & pre-fluxed solder paste mut be the method they used.

Thanks for the offer Ladas. I doubt that I'm going to be able to get 1mm x 1mm bits of foil to stay in the right spot while I glue it together though. I'm all thumbs when it comes to teeny teeny stuff .

I'll go for a walk to Jaycar at lunch tomorrow & see what they have. If I can get some low melting point solder, Mick's suggestion might be the way to go.
I wonder how long it takes to cook a remote ?

Don't know if this is any help, but if you want to hunt up a new chip try Wagner electronic in Ashfield. They have an online catalog, stock several times the stuff of Jaycar and do mail order.

Next suggestion is hot glue. I couldn't think of a glue that would shrink as it set to pull the component in place, but hot glue works a treat to stop it from happening again.

Had to rebuilt the set top box remote after kids drop-kicked it. Found it at Wagner, soldered, hot glue that sucker in, will never move again.

Or, Jaycar do stock replacement remotes. Probably not the right kind. Then you only need to hold it together for the new one to learn the code.

Cheers
Simon.

Scouse can u take a pict of what fell off and where it goes on the board and send me the pic?
I may be able to solder it back for u as this is what I do for a living.
repairing stuff and I have just done a chip component solder on a digital phone camera app one eighth the size of a pin head.
Send me pic first so i can identify what it is
Brad

Brad, there may be an opening here for you.

I've been asked a few times by the local LR specialist to repair stuff like this but I don't have the tools.

I tried to find the pics I tookof the P38A key fob PC for the rangerovers.net website but can't. I must have archived them They aren't on the site anymore, either (I have the site backed up to my laptop so I can make amendments).

Ron

Originally Posted by Bradtot

Scouse can u take a pict of what fell off and where it goes on the board and send me the pic?

Here's a couple of photos. I'm not sure if you can identify it from these though. It's the underside that's visible in the shots. The upper side has an M inside a square followed by 4.00F printed on it.




I've been to Jaycar & they reckon it can be soldered back in place. There's no way I'm going to be able to do it with my gas Weller so I've bought a small 240v unit with a tiny tip.
I'll give it a go tonight.

These are a rolling code remote, the learning type are only for the basic type remotes unfortunately.