Thread: synthetic oils

Originally Posted by BigJon

Maybe you should read the fine print , 20 000km unless you are stop start driving, short trips, hot conditions, towing, extreme cold, etc, etc. Then it reverts to 10 000km intervals.

We don't have a single LR that we service at 20 000km intervals, all at 10 000km.

Exactly. That's why, as I said, I change it every 6 months regardless Typically that is well less than half the maximum km and half the recommended interval

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

ok...weve now heard the views on different oils......i like...use and recommend penrite........
and put simply.......castrol oils aint oils.......it says so on their label if you dont believe me.....

if you change the oil before it breaks down and starts to lose its qualities....i dont think it really matters which
oil is used......from the cheapest of no frills $5 per 5 litres oil to the most expensive......
even expensive oil will lose its properties/qualities eventually....just not as quick as the cheaper stuff......



anyone got any truths about engine flushes.....?
ie....using a flushing agent/additive before each oil change to clean out the engine....
do these clean out the engine....?
or do they just loosen up enough gunk to clog up oil galleries....?

or does it all depend on the condition of the engine to begin with...ie...how clean it already is.....?


anyone have any experiences they care to discuss....?


ps....if im hijacking this thread.....i will be more than pleased to start another for this.......

Agreed on the oil thingy

.........but flushing to me is the most important part of an oil (or coolant) change.

In my view when you drain the old oil the stuff that want's to come out will - and that is generally the better of the 'stuff'. the **** that gets left behind - in the little traps, the small journals, filters galleys etc., is the stuff that will cause problems in the future.

I tend to go over the top, I drain, fit a by pass 'filter' (this is just to complete the circuit, no filtration) use our own flush, blow it out with either nitrogen or comressed air (regulated to <90 psi) and then I drain again, fill will flushing oil, run till warm, drain again and fit new filter and then fill with new oil.

Okay it costs a bit more, takes a bit more time - but since I have had this 'habit' I have never had problems.

what rightfoot said

even thats not really a good guide.....if your oil starts to break down at 4,000kms.....and you change every 5,000kms....
then you are leaving it in 1,000kms too long......


what the car manufacturers want the people to think is....our car is better than the others.......
it only needs to be serviced once a year.....or once every two years......
just think of the money you will save on servicing alone.....

and people actually believe it.....they dont know any better.....
little do they know that their engines wont last longer than 1 or 2 hundred thousand kms.....if lucky.....
if you dont get it serviced they will void your warranty......
if you do it at their specified intervals.....it is enough to keep the engine running for the duration of the warranty period......
after that they dont care.....they want them to die so they can sell you a new one.....

and if you see whats out there you will freak....gearboxes that dont need to have oil changes......sealed for life.....
i suppose when it dies its life is over....so it makes sense.....(i think)....

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

even thats not really a good guide.....if your oil starts to break down at 4,000kms.....and you change every 5,000kms....
then you are leaving it in 1,000kms too long......


what the car manufacturers want the people to think is....our car is better than the others.......
it only needs to be serviced once a year.....or once every two years......
just think of the money you will save on servicing alone.....

and people actually believe it.....they dont know any better.....
little do they know that their engines wont last longer than 1 or 2 hundred thousand kms.....if lucky.....
if you dont get it serviced they will void your warranty......
if you do it at their specified intervals.....it is enough to keep the engine running for the duration of the warranty period......
after that they dont care.....they want them to die so they can sell you a new one.....

and if you see whats out there you will freak....gearboxes that dont need to have oil changes......sealed for life.....
i suppose when it dies its life is over....so it makes sense.....(i think)....

Yep, that's the problem isn't it. Knowing exactly when a oil stops behaving as per specification you can only really determine by oil analysis which is a bit pricey

I do know that the centrifugal oil filter on the fender is supposed to be a **really** good thing for keeping the oil free of fine contaminants

Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

Yep, that's the problem isn't it. Knowing exactly when a oil stops behaving as per specification you can only really determine by oil analysis which is a bit pricey

I do know that the centrifugal oil filter on the fender is supposed to be a **really** good thing for keeping the oil free of fine contaminants

Next time you change one, pull it apart and see what it has collected and how it is collected. With regard to the 'how' , I don't know why Land Rover specify changing these as frequently as they do.

Anyone got any thoughts on this aspect?

Roger

the older motors - like the Rover V8 needs a heavier oil, as the oil galleries are larger compared to newer engines - so have been told not to use Mobile 1 in a Rover V8 motor.

in the search of more space in newer motors they reduced the galleries so run thinner oils - just like the TD5 does.

my recommendation would be Penrite - would never touch Castrol again, great marketing but poor products!!! I now run completely Penrite Synth / Semi synth in my Rangie Tdi Auto.

Just my 10c worth

LRH

the centrifugal filters are a good thing,on isuzu truck motors the outer housing would trap the particles you would remove the housing scrape the crap off and clean it then refit and the next 10,000km service there would be more stuff to clean off,this would mainly be soot from the oil.

Originally Posted by ladas

...blow it out with either nitrogen or comressed air (regulated to <90 psi) and then I drain again...

This part worries me

Starting without an oil film between metal bearing surfaces is inviting premature wear.