Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot
so.............whats it cost.....and where do ya get it....?
well I now own 20l of mobil delvac 1.![]()
Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot
so.............whats it cost.....and where do ya get it....?
I paid $226 for 20l. It's a bit more expensive than I was using, but not hugely so.Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
The place I got it from didn't have a outlet in Sydney, so probably not too much good to you DZ
Ring these guys and I know they will tell you where to get it from.
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I picked up 5l of D1 from Lowes Petroleum at Tamworth on Wednesday for $52. (had to pull the radiator out last week for repair and obviously lost what was in the oil cooler)
up2nogood, contact Mann-Hummel Australia re the centrifuges.
Yes, they make a range of universal centrifuges, with, IIRC the smallest of the range suits a 300Tdi, and again, IIRC it was around the $500 mark a few years back. This doesn't include fittings or fitting, as it has to be plumbed into an oil gallery and the discharge has to drain vertically back to the sump (which means sump removal, cutting a hole, brazing fitings, etc).
I wouldn't bother with trying to source a cleanable basket filter (probably aren't made small enough, anyway) you'd just keep using the standard full flow filter.
I better get in on this tooOriginally Posted by downundersteve
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I use too have constant oil leaks in the TD5 up to 100K when serviced with Land Rover. They use Mobil 1 full synthetic.
Now have all my work done at Graeme Coopers had alot of seals replaced when injector harness was done and oil pump bolt was done and Coopers use Penrite semi synthetic in the Td5. Now would you believe NO oil leaks in 26K touch wood. Could be onto something here with oil leaks. Very interesting.
I know this is a mighty bump but I just ordered another 20l of 5-40 Mobil Delvac 1. The price is now $261.![]()
 2005 Defender 110 
Here in Nz is gets a bit colder than most you guys are used to. If you use any thing other than 5-? oil then be prepared to to fix a major when the oil pump chain brakes taking half your engine with it. Personally I dont try to be cleverer than the guys who designed the motor so I stick what it says in the book. I use penrite 5w40 diesel oil. $109 for 10L.
Hi,
My POS runs on LPG mostly, the motor has done about 400k km in its current incarnation (350 Chev) and since I've owned it (190k km) has only been fed Valvoline XLD every 10k (in reality about 15k km) through a new filter each oil change.
5l of XLD is about $16 @ KMart when on special. Sometimes they have a 6l pack for the same price.
cheers, DL
In the LR manual it says that oils with a minimum viscosity of 10/? are good for -10. Oils with a top of ?/30 are only good to +30c whereas those with a top of ?/40 are good for 50c. So I thought a 5/40 should cover me in the Simpson over night (down to -10) and the top end (+40).
As to the cheaper oils (350RRC) you can certainly do that. For older engines where the oil can be changed more frequently they are probably a good option. However I can tell you that the manufacturers that specify long intervals all specify synthetic only. Some manufacturers are saying up to two years now if you stay with synthetic. Even though our defender never goes longer than 6 months I feel better running that kind of oil.
 2005 Defender 110 
The problem over here is that even 10 oil can be a bit thick for a td5 without being really cold, 5w is much tinner than a 10w even at 20c. The oil pump is then under too much load and brakes the chain. It can also wreck the by-pass filter.
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