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Thread: Disco Diagnosis

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ladas
    eyesight check............buggered if I can see one, looked like just a hole to me.
    It IS just a hole !!
    But obviously, they don't have a hole there normally because a nipple fills it .
    Scott

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse
    It IS just a hole !!
    But obviously, they don't have a hole there normally because a nipple fills it .
    Isn't the non greasable type solid and the greasable type tubing?

  3. #13
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    Solid or tubing where? You can see the hole in the middle of the shaft that the bearings run on. That would be where the grease comes out when it is forced through the non existant nipple.

  4. #14
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    Hi Dave, dont go to repco mate, just ring a bearing place, i got mine from one in wagga whilst down there when mine failed, the front one jammed so caused the one on the other end to brake appart. Shouldnt cost more then 20-30 bucks, i got one from LVS for $33 and the one from the bearing place in wagga for $22. I fitted one ok but one side was a bit tricky so i got a mechanic to fit it, took him all of 20mins.

    This is a perfect example of why you should service your own car, cause no bastard can be trusted to do it properly. Matt
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon
    Solid or tubing where? You can see the hole in the middle of the shaft that the bearings run on. That would be where the grease comes out when it is forced through the non existant nipple.
    Don't you mean 'that would be where the non existant grease comes out when it is forced through the non existant nipple'?
    This is a greasable uni and that is the hole where the grease nipple was attached. The nipple was removed as per dismantling instructions in the Haynes manual.

    Dammit! Why do simple mechanical procedures turn in to a headache for me? I chased a Uni all over Windsor at lunchtime - Repco, Supercheap, Clutch and Transmission place - all of them said I needed a K5-13XR priced from $18 to $37 and none of them had any. Finally found one at Auto-1 ($28). Bring it home... looks good... cups fit nicely... insert uni joint and press in cups with a G clamp... no problem, except the finished item is about 3mm too long to insert both the circlips. Huh? Are the cups supposed to 'pop' on an extra notch? Should the big hammer be applied? Or have I just got the wrong uni?

    Also are the uni's in the front and rear propshafts different? Supercheap listed different numbers for front or rear.
    Last edited by DiscoDave; 14th November 2006 at 02:14 PM.

  6. #16
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    Are you saying there wasn't a nipple in the hole between the shafts ?
    Scott

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse
    Are you saying there wasn't a nipple in the hole between the shafts ?
    No mate, you were spot on. I've edited my post above to clarify.

    So how much for the correct part please Scott?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDave
    Don't you mean 'that would be where the non existant grease comes out when it is forced through the non existant nipple'?
    This is a greasable uni and that is the hole where the grease nipple was attached. The nipple was removed as per dismantling instructions in the Haynes manual.

    Dammit! Why do simple mechanical procedures turn in to a headache for me? I chased a Uni all over Windsor at lunchtime - Repco, Supercheap, Clutch and Transmission place - all of them said I needed a K5-13XR priced from $18 to $37 and none of them had any. Finally found one at Auto-1 ($28). Bring it home... looks good... cups fit nicely... insert uni joint and press in cups with a G clamp... no problem, except the finished item is about 3mm too long to insert both the circlips. Huh? Are the cups supposed to 'pop' on an extra notch? Should the big hammer be applied? Or have I just got the wrong uni?

    Also are the uni's in the front and rear propshafts different? Supercheap listed different numbers for front or rear.
    You may have to put a couple of sockets on either end of the bearing cups to allow you to depress them below the surface of the yoke.

  9. #19
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    I am pretty sure front and rear propshafts take a different uni joint.

  10. #20
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    According to the parts fiche, both front & rear take TVC100010.
    Please dont ask the price .
    Scott

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