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Thread: click when taking foot of accelerator

  1. #11
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    Im not buying the waste gate, once your off the noise and the boost pressure begins to drop it should ease close with the loss of pressure. not shut agressively enough to make any noise...

    I would buy the fuel pump relay.... or something along those lines, as you come off the loud pedal the fuel demand drops but the pump still needs to raise the pressure in the line so that if you jump on it hard again (think upshifts or double declutch downs) maximum fuel is available.

    Its just a guess tho
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    Im not buying the waste gate, once your off the noise and the boost pressure begins to drop it should ease close with the loss of pressure. not shut agressively enough to make any noise...

    I would buy the fuel pump relay.... or something along those lines, as you come off the loud pedal the fuel demand drops but the pump still needs to raise the pressure in the line so that if you jump on it hard again (think upshifts or double declutch downs) maximum fuel is available.

    Its just a guess tho
    Bit hard double declutching an auto,but I'll give it a try

    As Big Jon mentioned before. My second thought was maybe a uni or dc joint but no other symptoms at all, the only reason I suggested a relay was the fact it is fly by wire and whilst typing on of the relays on the machine at work clicked, I thought "Thats the sound"

    I hope I am right

  3. #13
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    I had a clicking noise on lift off quite a while ago.
    It was the unis on the front tailshaft.

  4. #14
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    the tail is at the rear.

    How do you have a front tailshaft?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
    the tail is at the rear.

    How do you have a front tailshaft?
    I drive backwards

  6. #16
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    I had a feeling it could be the uni's on the front shaft, as some of you have mentioned. With the car in both neutral and drive there is about 5mm rotational play in both the front and the rear shafts.

    How much is acceptable and am I testing these correctly?

  7. #17
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    Lesmurdie - Perth WA
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    Could be your A frame ball joint

  8. #18
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    Douglas Park, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graz
    Could be your A frame ball joint
    It won't be that on a Disco II .
    Scott

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graz
    Could be your A frame ball joint

    I doubt it

    The D2 hasn't got one,

    Uni's are fine, both shafts are fine, engine and gearbox mounts are all fine turbo is fine, engine is fine, gearbox is fine

    but the bloody clunk is still there


    Oh I'm out of shape but it ain't my leg that clicks and clunks

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