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Thread: Oil Recommendation for LT95 4 speed box and Isuzu 4bd1

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    As I will be running power steering and a PTO driven hydraulic winch from a
    common reservoir was just trying to minimise oils carried
    I thought maybe I could get away with one oil in Lt230 with with tbd center diff
    MXA 5R gear box . Rear 9" detroit locker diff and wheel bearings
    Front 9" trutrac swivel housings and wheel bearings and Power steering winch
    hydraulics as well but not to be

    Thanks AM
    The closest you can get to a one fluid does it all is CAT TDTO or TDTO TMS which are TO4/TO4M spec fluids which are gear/hydraulic/final drive fluids.

    IIRC TDTO comes in straight grades (10W, 30 and 50 ?) and TDTO TMS is equivalent to a 15W-40/75W-90 oil.
    The TO4 spec is a really, really stringent spec but I'm not sure it'd even be beefy enough to protect the 9" properly, you still need a dedicated diff oil for that.

    I think even CAT use dedicated, heavier final drive fluids for those machines that have separate compartments.

    I'm going to buy the TDTO TMS for my old Fiat tractor which specs engine oil for everything.
    An oil bloke from Sth America emailed me a chart from a CAT study showing the massively reduced pinion wear on CWP's from using the SAE 30 spec CAT TDTO vs a good 15W-40/GL-4 dual rated engine oil. (remembering tractors use centreline spiral bevel CWP's, not massively hypoid like a 9")

  2. #72
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    Sorry to BUMP this thread as a brand new member (and as my first post), but I have an experience I would like evaluating:

    2 months ago, I noticed oil migration FROM the transfer box of my LT95 INTO the main gearbox. I did some research and heard great noises about Blue Devil Transmission seal conditioner. Around this time I also read this post on LT95 oils, and plumbed for the only synthetic I could find here: Redline MT90.

    2 months and 3500miles later, and oil is now hemorrhaging from my LT95 input oil seal and dribbling out of my bell housing like the preverbial trail of cookie crumbs. This seems to be related to a more significant failure of the transfer/main gearbox oil seal (as the dribbling becomes much worse when the main gearbox becomes over full -- which now does not take long!).

    What I am curious about is:
    Do any of you think this Blue Devil Transmission Oil Seal Conditioner is at fault, or is the MT90 culpable -- or was it a tag-team effort?

    Is there anyone who has run Redline MT90's in their LT95 without drama (I also have a Fairey Overdrive bolted in there)?

    -- I have found a relatively good (from what I can see of the general gear condition) LT95 from a guys shelf (though it was stored for some time covered and without oil), and will be throwing it in this week -- so I would like to know whether or not to stick to the MT90 (which actually reduces cabin noise by almost 20DB!!!!!!!!!!), or return to Castrol GTX (with which I had no problems.

    It might be worth pointing out that my rangy (Jen) has just flipped the 1,000,000Km mark -- so I am not ruling out co-incidence.

    Thanks in advance!

  3. #73
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    In the lucky country we just join both 'chambers' of an LT95 together with bog standard plumbing fittings and let them both share the viscous love.

    Plenty of info if you search.

    cheers, DL

  4. #74
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Just a comment - the oil from your bell housing is more likely to be leakage from a warped cover on the oil pump on the front of the box than from the front seal, although both are possible. Easy to fix - once you have the box out!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    DONT put 90w gear oil in the transfer if you do the GL5 oil will destroy the shims in the transfer and it will all turn to rubbish.
    Rover recommedned engine oil at 20w 50 the army uses 15w 40 castrol.
    These boxes are incredibly tough 20w 50 seems to have them last up to 500,000 ks.
    Be very wary of modern uninfomed advice.

    Wow

  6. #76
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    lt95 oil

    hi there, I go by the range rover workshop manual and use 20w/50 multigrade engine oil in both transfer case and gearbox. I also use the same 20w/50 in the engine. But I don't like when I am 4wdriving up a long steep hill loaded up with camping gear, I just feel that the 20w/50 is not protecting the gears like a gear oil,or manual transmission oil would. I buy a cheap 20w/50 and change it more often than required.
    thanks from peter

  7. #77
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Specialist gear oils are 'specialised' for extreme pressure and sliding surfaces, such as are encountered in hypoid gears and to some extent in spiral bevel gears. These are not used in these gearboxes. Manual gearbox oils are specialised for optimum performance of synchromesh clutches, and there is a case for this improving gear changes in the boxes in question. But they were designed to use engine oil, and it is difficult to see why even severe use would lead to lubrication failure.

    More frequent oil changes are not going to hurt, but I am doubtful that they offer more than peace of mind.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #78
    Jkeyboi Guest

    Lt95 gear box oil

    Hi iv recently purchased a 1985 county running the 4bb1 isuzu with the lt95 gear box the previous owner runs CAT 15w40 engine oil amd for the gear box and transer he runs 30w CAT gear oil is this ok or should it be changed seems to run beautifully

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