Thread: D2 Rotor Flex Weres The Uni Gone ?????

Angle grinder


Seriously They're a press fit and a puller didn't work for me.

http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/th...s.php?album=31

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Angle grinder


Seriously They're a press fit and a puller didn't work for me.

http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/th...s.php?album=31

I thought you were still running the Roto flex, when did you change over to the D1 shaft.

Baz.

I got rid of it a few years ago. Prob about 2+ years roughly. I just got sick of breaking the rotoflexs so got rid of them.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I got rid of it a few years ago. Prob about 2+ years roughly. I just got sick of breaking the rotoflexs so got rid of them.

looks like a bit of a task didntknow there was a nut uder that little spigot shaft how hard was it to remove as i have the center on the bench and have all types of ways of removing it oxy and my large slide hammer mite work to get the spigot out what would be better with the grinder like you did or heat it up could just weld it to the hook on my slide hammer and belt it out mick is hunting the other bits to do the swap did u renew the crush can on the pinion shaft or dose it have shims as u did the diff still in the housing how did u set the pre load on the pinion shaft or didnt you do this

cheers

chris

The nut under the spigot shaft is the one that holds the pinion in place, which I just rattled off and re rattled back on to the same setting on the gun. I don't think the Rover pinions run a crush tube like the Toyotas etc as far as I'm aware, so I didn't worry too much about the pinion heights. I'm pretty sure its shimmed into position.

With the centralising plug I couldn't pull it with what I had, and what I had just bent. It seems a few people have had problems with this. I didn't heat it as I didn't want to disturb the heat treatment in the pinion, and I didn't think to use a slide hammer, but wouldn't do that either in case it damages the bearings. I did use the angle grinder on the pinion flange after checking the diagrams, but that also trashes that part if you ever need it. The centralising pin is a press fit, and a bloody tight one at that. If I did it again I would grind it again also unless I had the tool.

Its really not a big task though, its just a pain to get the pinion flange off - the rest is just bolt work.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The nut under the spigot shaft is the one that holds the pinion in place, which I just rattled off and re rattled back on to the same setting on the gun. I don't think the Rover pinions run a crush tube like the Toyotas etc as far as I'm aware, so I didn't worry too much about the pinion heights. I'm pretty sure its shimmed into position.

With the centralising plug I couldn't pull it with what I had, and what I had just bent. It seems a few people have had problems with this. I didn't heat it as I didn't want to disturb the heat treatment in the pinion, and I didn't think to use a slide hammer, but wouldn't do that either in case it damages the bearings. I did use the angle grinder on the pinion flange after checking the diagrams, but that also trashes that part if you ever need it. The centralising pin is a press fit, and a bloody tight one at that. If I did it again I would grind it again also unless I had the tool.

Its really not a big task though, its just a pain to get the pinion flange off - the rest is just bolt work.

yep ok looks like im guna use the grinde then as i dont think the rotorflex is goin back on thanx
cheers

chris