What did u use as a spacer ?Originally Posted by discowhite
or space the radius arm to chassis bush out 10mm.
did this on the weekend while fitting new poly bushes and oh my god my steering is back to normal!
cheers phil
What did u use as a spacer ?Originally Posted by discowhite
I am not entirely sure what you are achieving here. Surely that would just move the entire axle assembly forwards. The castor is governed by the bushes in the front (axle) end of the lower control arms, not by the rear (chassis) mounts.Originally Posted by discowhite
heavy wall tube for now. having some spacers machined up to fit a bit neater.What did u use as a spacer ?
so moving the axle assy forward wouldnt change the castor angle?? im thinking about it and cant see why it wouldnt work?? i know it dose i can feel it!I am not entirely sure what you are achieving here. Surely that would just move the entire axle assembly forwards. The castor is governed by the bushes in the front (axle) end of the lower control arms, not by the rear (chassis) mounts.
anyway if it dont work why is it done for nissans??
cheers phil
so if i look at it this way.
the centerline running through the wheel (castor) is as is in the pic with a std radius arm. now if i pushed the radius arm forward 10mm would the center line of the wheel not move forward also??
hence gaining what i lost in the lift??
cheers phil
This will have almost zero effect on the castor angle - when you lifted it, the angle is changed by the same amount as the change in the angle of the arm relative to the chassis - and effectively lengthening the arm, which is what the spacer does, will not change the angle significantly. It actually will change it - the angle change is proportional to the arm length divided by the lift, and we have changed the arm length, but only by about 1%, so that is the same percentage change in the angle, small enough that I would be very surprised if there was any difference in handling at all.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
"For those with post 94 discos, with the front hubs that have a rubber center cap, you are supposed to run your swivels on grease - and there are oil seals to keep the diff oil out of the swivel and the hub."
Langy interesting comment, but is that a personal opinion or a landrover based idea?
Mine has the rubber center cap but all the bookwork says to use oil, which I do to refill the leaks.
BTW great photos, i would love to be able to master the art of attaching photos.
john
x2Originally Posted by JDNSW
No change to be had, the housing itself is pinned directly to the radius arm with 2 bushes and moving the arm on a horizontal plane won't do diddly
If it was a four link it would work as the arms are 2 on top 2 under fixed by 1 bush each on the diff end so moving the lowers would alter it
But its not a 4 link
If the bushes in the front of the radius arms were soft or worn then lengthening the radius arms to push the axle forward would intoduce a flex from the suspension componets which would work to correct the castor angle, maybe? Perhaps? Pure speculation here...Originally Posted by rovercare

 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberI note that you did not change the swivel bearings when you repreloaded them.
Every time I have had a swivel apart, the swivel bearing outer track has looked like a corrugated roof, with "Brinnel" marks.
This is why the preload goes off.
This is caused by the bearing sitting in the one place with the steering at straight ahead.
You cannot really get correct preload unlessyou replace the bearings.
Just my 10c.
Regards Philip A
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