Thread: How do you convert to OIL LUBED WHEEL BEARINGS?

Originally Posted by Utemad

Hi Byron I have come over from the other thread

If you look at page 497 of the appropriate RAVE CD you will see a diagram of front axle and final drive. It looks like if you just remove part 23 (constant velocity shaft seal) and part 7 (inner and outer hub seals) then you will have the setup that JDNSW says above that is the original setup. If you also remove part 8 (axle shaft seal) then you will have the complete oil setup from hub to hub that others have mentioned.

This is what I can gather from that diagram anyway. Someone correct me if I've got it wrong.

I'm going to just remove parts 23 and 7 when I do my hubs next week. I like the idea of having three commpartments. It may mean more work to drain/fill but it also means that any contaminants are kept to the compartment they entered.

Unless someone has a reason why it is better to have one compartment instead of three.

Yeah, Hi!.....I've left comments on the other thread too, but briefly again:

Does removal of (23) and replacing (7) with the correct oil type seal result in you getting oil lubrication of the bearings from the oil coming from the spheres?

That's what I want to achieve! I think it's a good idea to keep the diff [and axle] oil separate from the spheres [and wheel bearings] too.

But I think it should be easy to drain and refill the oil lubricating the CV swivels [and now the wheel bearings] using the original drain, level and fill plugs [in pre 94(?)] spheres.

Originally Posted by Utemad

I'm going to just remove parts 23 and 7 when I do my hubs next week. I like the idea of having three commpartments. It may mean more work to drain/fill but it also means that any contaminants are kept to the compartment they entered.

Unless someone has a reason why it is better to have one compartment instead of three.

You always have to drain/fill 3 compartments as they have their own sumps.

I have already stated the reasons I think it is better to just have "one compartment" in this thread, and AFAIK Mal Story and Bill Larmann agree with me, so that is good enough for me.

Another reason is the breather - the swivels don't have a proper breather, changing to one compartment means the axle breather works for everything.

I have been running the "one compartment" system in my IIA for 10 years, and have never had a problem with it.

Isuzurover I went back through the thread and couldn't find where you stated that one compartment is better than three but I do like what you said about the breather.

Will give me something to do at work next week other than work

Originally Posted by isuzurover

You always have to drain/fill 3 compartments as they have their own sumps.

I have already stated the reasons I think it is better to just have "one compartment" in this thread, and AFAIK Mal Story and Bill Larmann agree with me, so that is good enough for me.

Another reason is the breather - the swivels don't have a proper breather, changing to one compartment means the axle breather works for everything.

I have been running the "one compartment" system in my IIA for 10 years, and have never had a problem with it.

Having a breather for the spheres and bearing cavity is a very valid/important point! .......that would stop those compartments sucking in water when hot and plunged into water wouldn't it?.....A very important point I think!

I bought the two seals and a hub spanner from British Offroad on the way home. So come Monday afternoon there will be bits of Disco all over the floor Just the way I like it.

Originally Posted by Utemad

Isuzurover I went back through the thread and couldn't find where you stated that one compartment is better than three but I do like what you said about the breather.

Will give me something to do at work next week other than work

Utemad - I was really referring to my discussion with chazza on the subject - post #15. I still contend that if water DOES get in, it is less likely to do damage is it is spread around and turns the oil into a very diluted emulsion than staying in one place and stopping any lubrication at all in that place.

And the point I made before about the breather will help to ensure that water NEVER gets in.

I've converted the rears to oil-fed but not yet done the fronts (maybe will do).

OK, I think I have worked it out.

But....

As the Disco is going to Derby for my daughter and I'm concerned about her maintenance - she forgets to do it, I'd like the reliability of oil-filled bearings but the simplicity of greased CVs.

I think this can be achieved with Blknight's drilled drive flange arrangement but is fiddly.

Maybe I should just revert the car to oiled CVs and oiled bearings. The '95 Disco still has the fill and drain plugs in the swivel housings.

The simplest of the jobs is leaving the diff and CVs/hubs as two compartments but removing the axle oil seal does make a single compartment which is easy to check via the diff.

I recall that when I owned the '86 RR, checking the swivels was a regular job.

Have I got my thinking right?

If so, I think it might be time to filter all the comments and photos from several threads into a definitive how-to page.

I need to do it this week (today preferably whilst I've got use of a workshop) so suggestions would be appreciated.

Ron

Hi Ron,

When I did it I put photos up on this board somewhere but I can't find them. Was only late 2006 sometime.