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Thread: drivetrain shudder when coming to stop

  1. #1
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    drivetrain shudder when coming to stop

    Trying to diagnose a shudder/continuing clunk in the drivetrain when I come to a stop in my County 110. It only happens for the final 3-4m before completely stopping, occurs in forward and reverse and if I have the brakes engaged or not. It doesn't happen when just idling along though.
    Recently put some grease inside the front propshaft boot as its split and wanted to add a little protection until I replace the boot. Could this be causing it?
    Have adjusted the handbrake right off but yet to remove the handbrake drum. Considering the shudder is there regardless of if the brakes are applied or not I've rules out a disc or rear drum issue.
    I'd expect if there was a problem with one of the drive shafts it would get worse with speed and revolution, which isn't the case.
    What other possibilities could there be?

  2. #2
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    "A" frame ball joint for wear this when worn will cause similar problems

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The usual reason for this symptom is a dragging handbrake, either adjustment, not properly off, or its got oil leaking on to it. The symptoms will be made worse by sick U-joints, front or rear, or, in fact, anything that adds to the free movement in the drive train, but the root problem is almost always a dragging handbrake, although I suppose the same effect could be caused by a bearing on the way out in a diff or the gearbox/tranfer case, but in that case I would expect other symptoms.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Tried to remove the hand brake drum today but one of the 4 nuts holding the u-joint to the drum is free spinning on the bolt and can't get it off. Without taking the U-joint off the drum I can't easily get to the two flush mount philips head screws that hold the drum on. Chicken before the egg. Guess I'll have to take it to the mechanic after all.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsttry
    Tried to remove the hand brake drum today but one of the 4 nuts holding the u-joint to the drum is free spinning on the bolt and can't get it off. Without taking the U-joint off the drum I can't easily get to the two flush mount philips head screws that hold the drum on. Chicken before the egg. Guess I'll have to take it to the mechanic after all.
    I guess some like giving away money, hacksaw it off, the stud has to be replaced anyhow

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare
    I guess some like giving away money, hacksaw it off, the stud has to be replaced anyhow
    After removing the other 3 nuts, you might be able to wedge a screwdriver under the flange to jam the last bolt to get it undone.

  7. #7
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    Had similar problem, greased both prop shafts (pumped it in) and no problem since.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  8. #8
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    Removed handbrake. Problem fixed. Still have to put drum back together as the bolt heads that hold the rear drive shaft are rounded, need to find some new ones.

    The uni at the rear diff was also buggered so going to see if Repco has one tomorrow.

  9. #9
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    AAAGGGGGHHHHH NNNNNNOOOOOO! go to your local bearing supplies and buy hardie spicer universals, anything else is CRAP

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare
    AAAGGGGGHHHHH NNNNNNOOOOOO! go to your local bearing supplies and buy hardie spicer universals, anything else is CRAP
    OK, will see if I can find them...this is Darwin remember

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