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Thread: Cleaning ABS Sensors

  1. 10th December 2006, 09:04 AM #11
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    Captain_Rightfoot
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    This is an interesting thread. I think it's a good practice to change brake fluid more often as it reduces corrosion within the system which is good if you're in for the long haul.
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  2. 10th December 2006, 09:09 PM #12
    Graeme
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme
    On a D2 (don't know about the D1) that wont flush the fluid trapped in the ABS pump circuit and that old fluid can still cause problems with the shuttle valve switches. It really needs Testbook to operate the ABS pump while the bleed nipples are opened to do a complete job.
    Correction: Testbook is not necessary.

    The D2 ABS pump can easily be run by temporarily removing the ABS pump relay and bridging the contacts that supply the pump with power using a wire with spade terminals on each end, although having a switch in the middle of the wire would prevent arcing of the contacts in the board. It would make bleeding the brakes a simple job for 1 person too.

    No more dealer brake fluid flushing for me!
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  3. 11th December 2006, 06:04 PM #13
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    Bully
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    Ive removed my fuseable link due to the pump just wont stop running even after I switched the engine off.

    What would course it to keep running?
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  4. 11th December 2006, 06:20 PM #14
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    Blknight.aus
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    potentially an internal sensor/electronics fault if multimeter diagnostics comes up ok (its doable with the scematics on hand your looking at the main control voltages in the pump, not the brain electronics here). then it may have an airlock in the pump.

    the rough as guts solution is to fill the resivior, have someone underneath to crack the bleed nipples (full PPE mandatory for them) and someone on the brakes and ABS pump start button (the short out trick mentioned above)

    stand hard on the brakes, crack the nipple just, turn on the pump, then crack the nipple a little more, turn off the pump then lock up the nipple..

    This will get air into the brake system down by the pads but will bleed up the pump.

    then do the patented landrover gravity bleed thing as Zook described.

    you can in theory bleed the pump without it running but patients is the order of the day, ditto for lots of brake fluid.



    the best bet is a vacume bleeder down on the pads themselves.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 11th December 2006 at 06:27 PM.
    Dave

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  5. 11th December 2006, 10:02 PM #15
    Graeme
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bully
    Ive removed my fuseable link due to the pump just wont stop running even after I switched the engine off.

    What would course it to keep running?
    I'd suspect the pump relay is stuck closed - certainly would run the pump always if it was. Easy task to remove the relay and check it with a multimeter.
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  6. 11th December 2006, 10:06 PM #16
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    ladas
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    (full PPE mandatory for them)

    Please explain
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  7. 11th December 2006, 10:30 PM #17
    Graeme
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    Quote Originally Posted by ladas
    (full PPE mandatory for them)

    Please explain
    I'm not sure if this is for me, but in case it is...

    On the D2, the ABS ecu operates the ABS pump by providing power to the relay coil. The relay closes its contacts to link permanent battery power to the ABS pump. It the relay is stuck closed, the pump will run continuously. By removing the relay and checking the resistance across the big spade pins, if zero resistance is detected then the relay is stuck closed, so replace it with a good one.

    Sorry if it wasn't meant for me.
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