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Thread: V8 sump - gasket or sealant

  1. #1
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    V8 sump - gasket or sealant

    the sump on my 84 RR leaks (no its not the crank seals) and was wondering if they use a gasket or a slicone/sealant, it looks likr it has blue rtv silicone on it now, so i dunno? i might just whip it of and clean it up and put some silicone on eh?

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    It should have a gasket - originally I daresay it was fitted dry or with hylomar. I've had sucess with blue silicone by itself and also a gasket - silicone on both sides and bolt threads. Before you whip it off, how is your oil pressure? If it gets a bit low when hot, think about putting in a new set of main and conrod bearings whilst the pan is off. It isn't as hard as you would think - the hardest part is taking the pan off.

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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by langy
    It should have a gasket - originally I daresay it was fitted dry or with hylomar. I've had sucess with blue silicone by itself and also a gasket - silicone on both sides and bolt threads. Before you whip it off, how is your oil pressure? If it gets a bit low when hot, think about putting in a new set of main and conrod bearings whilst the pan is off. It isn't as hard as you would think - the hardest part is taking the pan off.
    Langy's quite correct, the RR V8's use a gasket and Hylomar according to the factory manuals

    ......You CAN use a good RTV sealant.....BUT a lot of people don't use it correctly.......they put them together too soon!

    - Let the RTV sealant form a good skin so that when you torque the parts up you don't squeeze all the sealant out of the join!
    Last edited by byron; 31st December 2006 at 09:48 AM.

  4. #4
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    I used a gasket and Loctite Master Sealant (either 515 or 518) on my P38A. It doesn't leak.

    Ron
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    thanx guys, i think ill just go with some silicone and yeah i also se people put silicone on and put it together straight away and wonder why it doesnt seal, dunno but the oil pressure, the gauge doesnt work, the light never comes on (it works tho), has 360199km on the clock and no signs of slowing down and runs perfectly fine so ill leave the bearings, would be another $15.99 siliocone job turn into a partial rebuild uuh nah thanks the only thing is if im going for ages the trans temp light ocasionally flickers, needs a fluid change to btw.

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    Also a job to do one day.

    Under the Disc. today looking at something else, & was wondering whether some of the steering/anti sway bar needs to come off to remove the sump or is it a close run thing?

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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by RRV80
    the trans temp light ocasionally flickers, needs a fluid change to btw.
    It might be that the wire is moving around and has worn off some insulation and is shorting out somewhere......check that before you replace the sensor

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    In regards to the trans temp, could it still be that the gearbox is wearing in, it was rebuilt along with the transfer not long ago (In KMS) id say about 1500km ago maybe, but it needs a fluid change as it is old and overdue, the light doesnt worry me, and i wont be replacing anyw sensors, i'll be getting new gauges as all the needles are warped and brittle.

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    Ahem ahem.

    Bringing this to the top again. Thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee
    Also a job to do one day.

    Under the Disc. today looking at something else, & was wondering whether some of the steering/anti sway bar needs to come off to remove the sump or is it a close run thing?

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