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Thread: D1 disco pulling right under brakes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Upwey, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by camel_landy View Post
    Don't forget to check out the caliper piston seals....

    Otherwise, the hub oil seal would be where I'd be looking.

    M

    always wanted to know, how do u check the poston seals etc ?? do they just leak ?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Nanny state UK...
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    Yeah... You'll see a residue. You may see it on the tyres or just have a look adound the calliper, wipe with finger & have a sniff...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    None of the above

    No it's not a caliper problem, at least I don't think so.

    I don't think it's pads, they are relatively new and have heaps of meat.

    It's not oil or grease, etc, fouling the pads, had all the brakes apart to check (this is how I know that the calipers are not leaking or sticking).

    The 'clack' sound is becoming more distinct and it's tending to pull harder right under heavy brakes now so I am guessing that it is a suspension problem. I had a squiz at the radius rods but I really can't see anything without pulling them off, so I may actually pay to get it looked at (gasp!)

    Thanks for responses.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    you dont need to pull them off, a jimmy bar inbetween the chassis rubbers will let you eliminate that one. (jack the vehicle up and put it on chassis stands to make life easy)

    a dog and chain from the front axle forwards and see what moves when you tension it that way..

    now same same down to the back axle...
    do that for both sides then do the rear axle...

    Its a bit rougher but go nick some cotton out of your wifes sewing box..

    you'll need 4 pieces and a helper whose good with knots

    drive forwards and brake hard keep the brakes locked on hard

    have your helper tie the bit of cotton around the front alxes mounting bolt for the locating arm then run it tightly back to a point as close as possable to the chassis mount for the arm (dont cross over the arm). do that on both sides, ease off of the brakes and select reverse roll back gently then touch the brakes and progress them to fully applied if a cotton thread breaks thats the side with the problem.

    If you can blocking out the susspension onto the bump stops will help stop the cotton from snapping due to spring movenent

    to do the rear axle same sam just swap forwards for reverse.

    Ive also been known to use a digital video camera sitting on a rubber mount in a u shaped bracket welded to a plate of steel to get footage of underbody parts while fault finding, you'll be amazed at what you can pick up when you slow mo a DV camcorders footage.

    If its getting worse i hope you find it soon
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Solved

    Thanks for all replies.

    End solution: Radius rod bushes were shagged. With the bushes replaced she pulls up straight now.

    Nice one!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    SYDNEY -in the shire.....
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    front or rear bushes.....

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