Thread: d1 onto 33" simex j/t's

Ok guys I have the 2" body blocks with crush tubes made.

I swung past Montrim today (we don't have clark rubber) they have 3 different types of flare rubber, 1 mounts by screwing it onto the gaurd from the out side & the other 2 screw on from underneath.

So has anyone got any hints & picture's on how I am going to trim my gaurds ??
Did you trim them & then fold an edge under ??? or do you just trim them ???
I have never had to trim gaurds before so all help is appreciated

Just trim the bastards. I used the flares that screw onto the outside so there's no lip. 1/4 inch tek screws did the job and some roof and gutter silicon just in case I did rip one off. This stuffs bonds to anything.

Cutting tool, I just got the old 4 inch angle grinder out and started cutting. I marked out the guards first and figured how much I needed to chop then went for it. I was ober at this point in time as I didn't want any wobbly looking guards

Rear doors are the hard ones with the double-skinned door. Be careful you don't overcut on the outside or it will look awfully wierd. I did the inside first then the outside. The 'megaline' 1mm cutting discs are the best for accuacy I found. Once you do the first one CARFULLY (it could be costly if you stuff it up) the second one is simple.

After I done all 4, I filed down the rough looking edges and left it as is for a while. Not the best look though

Best of luck with it.

Trav

Originally Posted by aquarangie

Just trim the bastards. I used the flares that screw onto the outside so there's no lip. 1/4 inch tek screws did the job and some roof and gutter silicon just in case I did rip one off. This stuffs bonds to anything.

Cutting tool, I just got the old 4 inch angle grinder out and started cutting. I marked out the guards first and figured how much I needed to chop then went for it. I was ober at this point in time as I didn't want any wobbly looking guards

Rear doors are the hard ones with the double-skinned door. Be careful you don't overcut on the outside or it will look awfully wierd. I did the inside first then the outside. The 'megaline' 1mm cutting discs are the best for accuacy I found. Once you do the first one CARFULLY (it could be costly if you stuff it up) the second one is simple.

After I done all 4, I filed down the rough looking edges and left it as is for a while. Not the best look though

Best of luck with it.

Trav

Pmsl.. your not a plumber as well by any chance. My mates are always up me for using tek screws & silicone.

Yer I am fairly sure of what I need to cut,, but it was the rear doors that had me bothered.
So when you cut the rear doors you actually cut that seam off that joins the 2 skins togeather & is that where the hole is that you guys warned would look silly if I didn't us LRA flares ??

If it's the gap in the door you're worried about, the silicon does the job here as well and I filled mine so it wouldn't collect mud, sand and all sorts of crap.

Once you have the flares on you don't see it unless you open the rear doors You also need to trim back the mudguard as like you siad, it looks stupid otherwise.

There's nothing wrong with the LRA flares, but if you're on a tight budget like I was at the time it's a good alternative.

Trav

this post may help

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...ghlight=Flares

LRH

PK so I didn't relise I had to cut that much out of the rear doors. I might just wait & go with the LRA flares They are dear but at least they come with some instructions on where to cut.

I personally would go the Plastic / Rubber version of the LRA flares - these are available now from the UK

LRH

Part No. PM787

Specially formed plastic wheel arch extensions that enable the cutting of arches in order to fit larger tyres and gain maximum articulation.

The flex in the plastic makes these arches virtually indestructable and must not be confused with fibre glass arches that can crack on impact.