Won't Start.....why...*crys*

well the light stopped coming on after i did some thing else, but the car was fine for ages still, i can only find the three fuses and theyre all fine.

Every other time i have changed points etc or worked on any car, there has been nothing other than this thing i havnt been able tog et going again:p

and the charge light wore broke the other week, was still fine tho, i cant reapir any of the wire without doing a new loom on this thing, they have gone hard and ****ty and snap, there are a few little things that dont work becasue wires have snapped off and cant be repaired. it is the same as all the jags and bentleys i work on - all **** electronics and wiring.

3 fuses thats right for a early rangie there is a couple of inline fuses under the steering coloum shroud im not sure what they are for :mad:

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Originally Posted by RRV80

i also forgot to mention the IGN light doesnt come on on the dash either anymore when you turn on the ignition.

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This could be a blown globe:D

well just skip past all the car stuff and jump straight to the coil from the battery, and see how it goes. i would also jump straight to the starter also, but that's just me.
ie delete the car from system.
if it goes then you have proved the coil to dist and other stuff you did.
if it don't then get back in there.

Probably not the case, and I think it's on the Discovery not the RR, but are you using OEM rotor or aftermarket? I remember folks on the forum having all kinds of trouble that was sorted by going back to the LR rotor.

hth.

Cheers
Simon.

Don't know if the attached will help - as it may be for a later model - but apart from the amplifier bit - the basic tests should be about the same.

Sorted this out while the forum was down (well i couldnt get in anyway) it appears the condesor was dodgy, as i went and bought another one (a bosch one) and she fired up straight away, so condensor.

And i bought myself a pair of wire strippers and fixed the wire on the back of the alternator, the ign light now does what its supposed to, fixed a few more wires and i now have a oil temp, and pressure gauge working that hasnt since i bought it - so its all good now and sounds and runs much healthier, thanks for all your help.

What should oil pressure be? if i am reading it correctly it is about 120KpA but i dont know how accurate it is!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRV80

Sorted this out while the forum was down (well i couldnt get in anyway) it appears the condesor was dodgy, as i went and bought another one (a bosch one) and she fired up straight away, so condensor.

And i bought myself a pair of wire strippers and fixed the wire on the back of the alternator, the ign light now does what its supposed to, fixed a few more wires and i now have a oil temp, and pressure gauge working that hasnt since i bought it - so its all good now and sounds and runs much healthier, thanks for all your help.

What should oil pressure be? if i am reading it correctly it is about 120KpA but i dont know how accurate it is!

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Great to hear things are back to normal

120bKpa = 17.4 psi - seems a bit low to me, but others may know better

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladas

Great to hear things are back to normal

120bKpa = 17.4 psi - seems a bit low to me, but others may know better

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Does it rattle?? No?? we'll its fine;)

120kpa is fine for a cold idle. a little lower when its hot but you really want about double that for when the engine is working...

Dont trust those electrical oil pressure type setups, they go out after a while and if you change the resistance of the wiring they get worse.

Their advantage is if they break they generally dont leak. Where I can I like to mount both types a mechanical and an electrical, the mechanical stays inside the engine bay and the electrical runs up into the dash. thatway you have the indication for it you need it and the accurate one is just a hood pop away.