I use Silastic 732 Silicon RTV sealant works good on planes and they are all aluminium. No idea what its worth, probably a bit hexy but you never know.
I am attacching some more check plate to my Fender and want to glue as well as pop rivet it on, problem is i cant get Sikaflex locally, but I do have some stuff at work called "Sikatech Drive" for windscreen attachment and seal. Is this ok to use on aluminium??TIA.
The Ugly Duckling-
03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.
a master of invisibleness.
I use Silastic 732 Silicon RTV sealant works good on planes and they are all aluminium. No idea what its worth, probably a bit hexy but you never know.
Cheers from the Desert
Rexy
2000 130 TD5
Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
Crump, I don't see why not. To me, Sikaflex is a timber boat deck seam sealer, go for the Sikadrive, it sounds like a propper auto product that should actually stick to metals a lot better than Sikflex does.
Shorty.
There are a heap of different sikaflex variants for bonding all sorts of things - including aluminium. In fact a mate of mine used to build buses for a living, and the aluminium bus panels were attached to the frame using sikaflex only (a couple of rivets to hold the panel while the sikaflex cured).Originally Posted by shorty943
Crump - if that is a winscreen sealant it may not be a fully curing product??? If it cures like sikaflex then it would be fine. You can get sikaflex from bunnings if there is one near you - they seem to be everywhere these days...
Yep, true Ben. Sikaflex is a brand name, rather than a product name, guilty as charged yet again. (chuckle) Still prefer mechanical fastening to glue.
What is it with this checkerplate all over the rigs anyway, footprints? It's a Land Rover for God's sake, it's meant to be dented and scratched up. Even if only a little bit.
Other wise just go buy some Jappa Toorak Tractor like all the rest of the yuppies.
Or Have I dented someones sensibilities again.
Shorty.
I am pop rivetting it as well, was just looking at something to act as a bit of a buffer between the plate and the panel, my question related more to the corrossive qualities of some silicon based products to alOOOminumnot so much as its sticking qualities, and as to offending my sensibilities, I think I lost them in 1974.
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The Ugly Duckling-
03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.
a master of invisibleness.
Crump...
Dont do it! The air pocket you'll create will really thump along the corrosion.
Better to use a little bit of foam stripping to buffer the 5 bar and not trap water.
This is how the genuine LR gear is done.
If you are glueing aluminium to aluminium then there will not be any corrosion. I sikaflexed chequerplate to my quarter panels on the IIA about 5 years ago, and no problems yet.Originally Posted by tombraider
Shorty - my IIA has plenty of dents and scratches, but the chequerplate on the 1/4 panels has saved me a number of times from getting major dents on rocks. And 110 guards are so thin these days that leaning on them dints them!!!
And now the dumb question.
If the panel you are gluing things to is painted, what does it matter what its made of?
Unless of course you are scratching through the surface to help adhesion.
Did I answer my own question?![]()
As far as I can make out the thing to avoid with silicone sticky stuff is to make sure it doesn't have an acetic acid base as this is what would eat into the ali.
Maybe an alternative to sticking would be to spray the underside of the plate with a coat of sound deadener spray to act as a buffer before the rivets go in.
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