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Thread: Clutch master cyl access

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Clutch master cyl access

    Clutch fluid on boots ok, clutch fluid on toes not ok.Used the Defender workshop manual to replace it the "PROPER" way and it took forever = more than the beer ln the shed fridge. I dont remember the SIII unit taking that long, perhaps a couple of carefuly cut holes in the pedal braket top section would cut the time in half by allowing the cylinder to be changed in situ.????
    '99 Tdi 300 130 Twin Cab
    When I'm here I want to be out there.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sly View Post
    Clutch fluid on boots ok, clutch fluid on toes not ok.Used the Defender workshop manual to replace it the "PROPER" way and it took forever = more than the beer ln the shed fridge. I dont remember the SIII unit taking that long, perhaps a couple of carefuly cut holes in the pedal braket top section would cut the time in half by allowing the cylinder to be changed in situ.????
    I've done both Series and 110 both with and without removing the pedal bracket, and believe me, removing it is the easy way! Fold the bonnet back against the windscreen of course - I assume you did that.

    It is possible to remove/refit the bottom bolt on the cylinder with the bracket in place, without modifications, but it is difficult to see how you could modify it to make it easy. The inside nut you can get from inside the vehicle - but you can't turn it, and the bolt head you can get a socket on (except you can't see it) and it is almost impossible to turn more than 1/12 turn at a time.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    I'm in the middle of a 110 rebuild and have had a lot of refurbishing to do so I've had to work on just about everything. It's definately easier with the pedal housing removed from the vehicle.

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