I just remembered something this morning which may or may not be of use to series owners. This will be elementary to some fellas but may be a revelation to others. My cars were leaf sprung Suzukis but I assume the LR will be similar. All of them would have an inherent trend to pull left. What you want to do is to basically shorten the wheel base on the RHS and lengthen the LHS.
On my vehicles the centre-bolt thru the leaf pack was a loose fit in the location hole in the U bolt plate which gave some freedom to reposition the axle alignment, not much but enough to make them track straight.
You'll need a load binder, stronger the better but a $10 from the hardware should do the job. First job, spray the U bolts with plenty of Lanotec or similar & give them a good scrub with a wire brush. Use your own discretion here, wait maybe a day or so for it to soak in before picking up a spanner. One more note; like many other bolts, U bolts are said to be single use items, so replace them while you are at it if you have any doubts about their condition.
Loosen the U bolts, loop the load binder around the axle housings on the RHS and tighten the strap to pull the axles toward each other, only taking up the tolerance in the centre-bolt location hole in the plate of course. They will probably need some persuasion, just give them a kick. Lock the U bolts up and move to the LHS. I was able to use my bulbar at the front and chassis extension at the rear, but you may find it just as easy to use an anchor such as another vehicle or a post or what have you. So, same thing but this time pull the LHF wheel forward & the LHR wheel backward. Lock up U bolts.
Check the toe-in while you’re dirty. Jack each front wheel up and spin it, use a scribe to mark the tread face as it’s spinning. Let the car down and now measure the marked line from one tyre to the other. On a part time 4wd I would suggest approx 0mm to 2mm of toe-in, that is, the measurement taken at the front of the tyre will be less than the rear measurement. If it is bad enough to warrant adjustment this is done at the tie rod/draglink between the two wheels, one tie rod end being left hand thread, the other, right hand thread. With the locknuts cracked loose, the draglink tube is turned one way to wind the toe in and vice-versa to toe it out. A word of warning, the measurement you take with the TRE locknuts cracked may change as you lock it back up, so re-check it when you are done.
Clear as mud?

Test drive, grin smugly & treat yourself an ale.