Great find. Will be keeping that in mind and if the central locking goes I know where to get new motors!
So I don't know if anyone else knows about this or not...
I wanted to fit remote central locking onto the D1 (early upgrade model), but keep the original door locks and c/l system. Of course, it doesn't have a motor on the driver's side door, on the assumption that you will always be unlocking/locking that door. I also piggybacked onto the immobiliser that I had to fit to the car (requirement in WA)
So I bought a cheapo central locking kit and fitted it up on the driver's side door only and onto the immobiliser, all fine.
Then one of the other locks started playing up (no surprises there) and I pulled it out, thinking that I could use some of the other central locking locks that I didn't need from the kit for the job. Surprise, surprise, they fit completely. That is, the screw holes are in exactly the right place and the top hooks straight on to the rods within the door of the discovery. The only thing you have to do is wire it in (two splices or two solder spots and a bit of insulating tape)
And bob's your uncle, your locks work again. See attached photos (if they work) for a comparison.
The central locking kit I bought was a Dominator AC100 from JB Hifi. This is the cheapest, most generic one they sell and cost $48. Also sold as a Warlock AC100. I think they have them in all states.
Cheers all
Owen.
Great find. Will be keeping that in mind and if the central locking goes I know where to get new motors!
too late, my rear one went, got a genuine one sh on ebay.
I believe the drivers door has a 5 wire one where the rest of the doors are only 2 wires?
I have heard this before, and $48 is alot better than $100plus for one door lock actuator from land rover. My passenger side rear door one is on the blink so this may be the go. matt
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
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http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
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yeah have found most of the cheap ones work, just chop the connectors off and solder on new ones.
Depends what you mean. I didn't have a drivers side one before. The front door locks in the kit I bought both have 5 wires. 2 are for the actuator and three are for the up-down trigger (goes to the computer). I would hazard a guess that these could be a direct replacement for a 5-wire motor from land rover, as they would work in the same way.
Glad I came up with something useful, thanks for positive responses.
I have also used the generic motors to replace the standard ones in my 94 Disco. I have done both passenger side doors and am about to do the driver's side passenger door. So only the driver's door and cargo door have original motors.
The rear door holes line up perfectly with the generic motors but I found I needed to modify the bracket for the front passenger door.
The two wire motors are around $8 each from Jaycar. The 5 wire ones are a little more.
I've tried this to replace a crappy actuator in the back door and the problem I found is that the non genuine one worked out of phase of the others. Eg, unlock all doors, the back door would lock, lock all doors and the back door would unlock. It would not move until it was out of phase!
First time I fitted a cheap system in to my old Jackaroo had the same problem.... I must ave leant on one of the locks whilst installing. Found removing the plug from the control box, make sure they are all in the same position eg locked or unlocked then reconnect box. Fixed. (Took me about 2 weeks as it was winter and I didn't have anywhere undercover to do it until my mate and I were doing a day trip and pulled in to a garage that had an undercover area off to the side and we fixed it
I have had a similar problem with my 97 disco. Similar in that I have changed out most of the central locking mechanisms with aftermarket units which fir straight in. Problem has come with the drivers side unit which has just craped itself. The after market unit I have has 5 wires but the fitted unit has 4 wires. I looked at the wiring diag in the Haynes Manual and owrked out which original wore did what, but couldn't work out which wire to leave out of the new mechanism. Eventualy I blue the fues so something was not right. Anyone know what to do with a 5 wire mechanism and an original 4 wire set up??
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