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Thread: Wiring loom harness AGAIN!!!

  1. #21
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    Now I'm a noob to the workings of LRs but is there anyway/anywhere to mount the ECU above the level of the motor?

    If the loom has that flexible plastic surrounding the wires, could you use that spac filler stuff in the loom itself.

    This is something I am going to most definitly check when inspecting my new TD5....

    Cheers
    Caine

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by catch-22 View Post
    Now I'm a noob to the workings of LRs but is there anyway/anywhere to mount the ECU above the level of the motor?

    If the loom has that flexible plastic surrounding the wires, could you use that spac filler stuff in the loom itself.

    This is something I am going to most definitly check when inspecting my new TD5....

    Cheers
    Caine
    In the Disco TD5 the ECU is at the top of the engine bay right behind the battery. The pics I posted above are of the ECU connector in my 1999 Disco TD5.

    You can't really get it any higher without drilling holes and mounting it on top of the bonnet

    You will find that the oil will be travelling downhill, then back up to get to the ECU connector. So I'm not sure that will help anything even if possible. I think it's a bit of a capillary action/pressure thing happening.
    2012 110 Defender

  3. #23
    dan667766 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by ladas View Post
    Do a search - there are a few chaps who have cleaned out their own loom - and a few of us are trying to find a fix for it.
    I had to clean the computer end today and used prepsol, seemed to clean a lot better than metho and dried with the help of the compressor. all is good now so far.

  4. #24
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    Bugman,
    sounds like you are being ripped. Ask them to explain why the main harness needs to be replaced and why it can not be cleaned.
    There are a lot of us that have been through this and not replaced the main harness. It takes a few hours but the main harness can be cleaned with a non plastic destructive contact cleaner or metho or similar. Basically disconnect both ends at head and ecu, either make a cup up around the plug and fill and allow to drain through, spray the plug often or set up a cup and low pressure air to hlpg seep through. The hotter the day the better as it will aid the capilliary action. The injector harness can be cleaned and reused as well, although the o rings will need replacing as this is the culprit and starts the problem.
    The injector harness only cost me $130, but you need to be certain of you VIN etc to get the right one. Replacing the injector harness is easy and should only take 1/2hr. I let contact fluid run through mine over night and when clear stopped. You will have to check the ecu connector over the preceding few days to wipe up any residue.
    Cheers
    CraigE
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigE View Post

    The injector harness only cost me $130, but you need to be certain of you VIN etc to get the right one.
    Injector Harness is same for all Td5 (AMR6103). Rocker cover gaskets change at VIN 2A

  6. #26
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    I'm helping a local with the same problem. His has oil everywhere at the ecu and a dud boost modulator too so its hard to tell which one is causing his problems. Hopefully he ordered a new injector harness, gasket and modulator today, along with a new turbo-to-intercooler kit as his are original 2002 and very soft.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Hybrid View Post
    Injector Harness is same for all Td5 (AMR6103). Rocker cover gaskets change at VIN 2A
    When I ordered mine I was given 2 different numbers. I believe one may have been the older type and may not be available any more. May have been given incorrect info as well. The one I did get was AMR6103.
    Cheers
    CraigE
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

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  8. #28
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    I should have pointed out that the engine harness also changes. You would need a VIN for that one.

    They did a so-called "modification" on the injector harness apparently, but they never superseded the part number which they usually do.

  9. #29
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    Brett,

    I have had great success buying parts from UK based suppliers such as "Land Rover Direct". The main harness (YSB000831)is in thier cattledog for pounds 236.44 (A$545) which is very cheap, and I believe the harnesss is easy to fit. You may also need the Injector harness (AMR6103), again LR Direct for pounds 36.37 (A$77.80) and again apparently easy to install. PS don't forget new "O" rings for the injector harness pounds 1.13 (A$2.42).

    Good luck!

    PS Mine runs like a truck when it is cold but purrs like an alley kat once warmed up!
    Last edited by Patrol 32; 19th August 2008 at 11:44 PM. Reason: spelling!

  10. #30
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    thought i would dig up an old thread then start a new one.

    bought a td5 130 defender a few months ago. i knew it had a few little issues when i bought it and a leaky injection harness. i'm new to land rover but i'm not too worried.

    the car runs like dream so there are no problems with performance but i'm slowly making the fender ready for touring and want it to be bomb proof. the loom looks like it has been leaking for ages though... there is a layer of oil all over the bottom of the box the ecu lives in under the seat.

    i have a new injector loom here ready to go in. so i'm just going to replace the injection loom and flush out the main harness. any tips?

    kinda worried i'm trying to fix something that ain't broke

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