If you're getting a click when you try to start it could be the starter solenoid isn't working like it should.
Have you put a meter across the battery to check the voltage and also what it does when you try to put it under load?
Just tryed to start sally anne and she was cranking fine, but then stopped. tryed to restart but all i'm getting is a dead mans click. So I'm charging the main battery but dose anyone know what else it could be?
I would love to get rid of every thing computer related.
If you're getting a click when you try to start it could be the starter solenoid isn't working like it should.
Have you put a meter across the battery to check the voltage and also what it does when you try to put it under load?
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
assuming the battery can deliver the amps and volts required get someone to hold it on the start position and give the starter a love tap with a rubber mallet..
also check it can still start by giving it a pull/push start.
if it will start by bumping but not by the starter its a starter fault not an electronic one.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Seem like every thing is snow balling, could this have caused my previous starting faults. Just tryed to tow start with no dramas. I don't have a volter metre but when I went and put the batt cahrger on it the charger display read 2 1/2- 3 A. I dont know if thats single anps or 100s of amps. She still runs fine without any loss of power or preformance. It's getting it to start. Tryed the love taps nadda, there is now a dedicated earth to the starter moter. However the S1 had no dramas with being at the front of the tow. I wish sally anne had a crank handle too.
Last edited by easo; 5th February 2007 at 06:45 PM.
ive had some problems with a weak battery.....it wasnt flat.....just low.....
it had enough to just turn the engine over...but it wouldnt fire up......which it normally does first kick.....
i couldnt even clutch start it.....
it turns out that there is not enough power for the system to operate correctly....
not sure if its the ecu or injectors or fuel pump......but there wasnt enough power to fire up.....
so........................a weak battery may not allow it to be clutch started......
had a similar thing of the g/f daewoo... turns out the battery was nearly dry! dumped in 2 litres (yes 2 litres) of deionised water... and its been fine ever since... i'd assume the battery was sealed but maybe worth checking if it isnt and its dry? if its dry its current ability and ability to hold charge will be greatly reduced
Thanks
Steve
The battery was replaced when I posted 'starting dramas' in early jan, since I have removed all earths and major power suplies and cleaned. Also added a dedicated earth lead to the starter motor. The stealer has a disco showing similar symptoms so their removing the starter motor from both for a sticky beek.
Is there a link of postal address to have a bi**h to LR?
turning on to a cold engine your battery must be able to provide 85 amps @ 11.5v while all the following are on
1. ecu
2. fuel pump
3. glowplugs
this drops to 25 when the plugs are off and the fuel pump is on full tilt
when the pump is not going flat out that drops to below the threshold of the work clamp meter...
I dont have 100% faith in the work clamp meter (its well abused) but at first guestimate those numbers make sense when compared to EFI numbers and old school glowplugs in a series or perentine.
On top of that draw the starter relay and soleniod draw 15 amps in their own right (according to the clamp chich doesnt start to read on scale till 20 amps)
Then the starter kicks in, hopefully.
you could try this if the battery is on the way out and your sure youve got good connections
glow the engine, wait for 30 seconds, glow it again and repeat, then as soon as the plugs go out if your lucky you might get a start.
The logic is 2 sided 1. when you expose the battery to a load it warms up and develops a "surface charge" while your not drawing current from it, which, providing the battery isnt totaled might give you enough herbs for a couple of turns of the crank. 2. The air and chambers will be warmer from repeated glowing so in theory it should start easier.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
G'day Easo![]()
Sounds like you have a sick starter, my guess is a worn commutator end bush,or brushes, drawing to much current, that would account for slow rotation, and the lack of further power for successive starts, tthe starter would need to be removed, and tested by an Auto Electrician, if it is a Lucas, try KB classis spares in Qld as he is the only Lucas bloke that has a large stock of spares, or Barry Cliff in Sydney, he advertises in Restored Cars Magazine![]()
cheers
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