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Thread: Ooh, that's dark.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Talking Ooh, that's dark.

    It happened the other night, returning from a visit to friends. Driving down the road, all Okay, on coming traffic round the bend, dip the headlights. Road clear again, return to high beam. NO WAY. No high beam anymore. Back to low beam, not a problem, try the high beam flasher, all Okay. Only bung in the main switch somewhere. Will rip it apart to investigate tomorrow (saturday), till then, any suggestions? Dropped a wire off or some such, I hope.
    Don't like the prospect of having to obtain the unobtainium to "make a bastard" as my old Engineer Officer used to say.
    Lieutenant Commander Jack "make a bastard son, make a bastard" Markham. You can learn a lot from a man like him.

    Shorty.

  2. #2
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    Had the same issue in the Disco. When you pull the switch apart you will find it has melted so no longer making contact. I was able to fix mine up enough to get it all working again. Thinking of putting in relays near the headlights to 1) save having the high current running through the switch and 2)improve the light performance with less voltage drop

  3. #3
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    Hi Shorty
    YEP FRIED HI/LO SWITCH.
    Caused by the headlights draw a full load thru the hi/lo beam selector.
    The fix a new switch around $80 from any non genuine dealer.
    The real fix,buy that new switch stick you need,then get onto Drivesafe and get a headlight upgrade kit,the factory switch will only then be supplying a trigger current to your new BRIGHT lights.At the same time replace the standard sealed beams with H4 inserts.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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  4. #4
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    Talking

    Thanks Andy. Probably the H4's that killed it. Back to the drawing board. Off to the wreckers tomorrow, find any switch that will fit in place, and mod her to hell, again. Some nice new relays, chunky wireing, you know the score. I had intended to upgrade anyway, just not right bloody now. Oh well, que sera.

    Shorty.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    G'day Shorty943

    Yes, High beam wire on the switch, the Blue and white tracer one, if you are lucky you may be able to rejoin it, Selly's metalic cement is supposed to work OK but may be able to solder with small iron and low melt solder then fit a relay up near the battery near the Radiator should be room, Blue and white=High, Blue and Red= Low beam, wire as per instructions enclosed. The amperage from the H4's would have been the culprit

    cheers

  6. #6
    lokka Guest
    Put in a holden floor mount dipper then dip with ya left foot instead

  7. #7
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    Talking

    Thanks Unca Ho, already have a nice big twin relay. And some nice chunky 24V marine wire, and a cold chisel and half a brick. Should fix it?

    Blue with white trace = high
    Blue with red trace = low
    Got it.

    To Lokka, NO WAY MATE. (with a grin) Just like the old Falcon, I drove many years ago? Had to keep kicking the damn thing to make the lights come back on.
    Stick to plan A. Wreckers in the morning, find any switch that I can make fit, can opener, big hammer, crow bar, I have the technology. ( more grins ) She'll be right mate. She's a Series model, she can cope.

    Shorty.

  8. #8
    lokka Guest
    2 toggle switches mounted on a plate riveted to the dash pannel 1 for high 1 for low beam 2 easy
    Hows things down the bend as its been a good while since i was there last

    Cheers

    Chris

  9. #9
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    Talking

    Yep, I had thought of that one as well Lokka.
    Being a Marine Engineer, I am a great believer in the jury rig.

    Let me see, one for the dashlights, one for the headlights. one for the interior light, one for the-- damn run out of room. I gonna need a Jumbo Jet liscence for this thing soon, what with some engine guages to tell me oil pressure, amps, volts, gearbox and t\case oil temps, which way is up, etc. Just as well the previous owner fitted a full width overhead thingy above the windscreen, might have to move some things up there. Hey, I just realised, I have a place to fit some wireless gear. Beauty, more money to spend. Now all I need is a visit from the tooth fairey.
    Thanks for the tips, Landy Andy, Unca HO and Lokka, I'm now logging out, and I'm off to do some electrickery, see you on the flip flop.

    Lokka, I see we share the same first name.

    Same old, same old, in the Bend mate. People still don't even come here to die. At the moment it is hot dry and windy, same old same old.

    Shorty.
    Last edited by shorty943; 10th February 2007 at 01:06 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Talking All better now

    Listen to everybody, use a little from all, last thing to do is replace the temporary rocker switch, for high beam ( looks too jury rigged even for me ) with a new toggle item from the local autoelectrician tomorrow morning. A couple of piggyback spade connectors, a couple of jumper loops, found the source of the elusive dash light problem, combined dash lights with parkers via a piggyback, all good there now as well. Nice big Bri-law CR12-2B double sided relay, one for each beam, and I still have indicators and horn in standard function, the new triple tone air horns are also relay switched, all relays being located in place of the old u\s horn, now in the bin.

    Thank you very much all, for the tips on where to look in the first place, and why. And thank you once again for sometimes amusing ideas for a fix. I combined the lot with a touch of my own, and now all is good, and it all still looks absolutely stock standard. Well, it will tomorrow.

    Shorty.:

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