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Thread: 300TDI P -Gasket

  1. 10th February 2007, 05:35 PM #1
    andkat Guest

    Angry 300TDI P -Gasket

    Thie will be the third time I have replaced the P-Gasket, I have had the Metal P gasket, the paper ones, they have all tended to let go.
    Has anyone found a sure fire fix, as I am getting sick of replacing the blessed thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Cheers
    Crawfy
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  2. 10th February 2007, 10:54 PM #2
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    kie4
    kie4 is offline Master
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    Hi Ive never had trouble with a paper gasket with a smear of grease on either side.
    Are both surfaces flat?
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  3. 11th February 2007, 07:52 AM #3
    camel_landy's Avatar
    camel_landy
    camel_landy is offline YarnMaster
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    I had my original paper one let go in Alice. I fitted the modified metal one with the extended bolts and have not had a problem since. 2hrs should be all it takes.

    Big Jon should be able to tell you all about it.

    M
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  4. 11th February 2007, 11:20 AM #4
    sumo
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    Quote Originally Posted by andkat View Post
    Thie will be the third time I have replaced the P-Gasket, I have had the Metal P gasket, the paper ones, they have all tended to let go.
    Has anyone found a sure fire fix, as I am getting sick of replacing the blessed thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Cheers
    Crawfy
    I had mine replaced about 2yrs ago, could not hang around to see what went in or what came out , but they did say the modified gasket was fitted , a plastic one Have had no probs since.

    Cheers Sumo
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  5. 11th February 2007, 01:45 PM #5
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    langy
    langy is offline Wizard
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    Welcome to the club....you are not the only one. The only thing I can add is that for me this time around, I used blue silicon ( Bluemax) instead of red rtv, made sure the joints were spotlessly clean, using metho after the scraper, and torqued the bolts to spec using a medium torque wrench. Whether or not the LR metal gasket outlives the aftermarket metal gasket is up to conjecture at this point, as it's only been two months. At least I've found out that you can bypass some of the steps - you don't have to remove everything to move the accessories bracket back far enough to get at the p-gasket. But I do recommend follow the step of draining the block of coolant so the joint has the maximum chance of sealing.
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