Thread: Airlock TD5 radiator

is the "no" for the brake fluid......?

Originally Posted by crump

no, ok how? I got RAVE, is that going to explain it in knob terms??

Go on Steve, you can do it - just apply logic, and read a lot

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

is the "no" for the brake fluid......?

yep, cos thats the one that scares me, I hate bleeding brakes.Dunnit heaps of times with bikes but none of then had ABS.

Originally Posted by crump

yep, cos thats the one that scares me, I hate bleeding brakes.Dunnit heaps of times with bikes but none of then had ABS.

if you can suck the old fluid from the reservoir it makes it easier.......
if not it doesnt matter........

start with the lefthand side and loosen the front and rear nipples so that the fluid starts flowing out........
or you can just do 1 at a time.....in this order.....LHR....RHR......LHF.....RHF.....


here is a step with a bit of importance........
NEVER LET THE RESERVOIR RUN OUT OF BRAKE FLUID.......!!!!!!!

or you will take forever to bleed the system properly again......
so....all that means is keep the reservoir topped up as it drains from the bleed nipples.....

when you have clean fluid coming from the nipples...close them and repeat for the righthand side.....

when you have finished......start with the LHR nipple and open it till there is clean fluid coming out.....
there mustnt be any bubbles or airgaps in the dribble....then close it again....this should only take less than 5 seconds for this step.....
then repeat for RHR......
then LHF......
and finally RHF......

now.....before you even start the engine....make sure you still have a brake pedal......
its no use jumping in starting it and throwing it into gear......only to find the pedal hits the floor as you are
reversing out your drive and gaining speed.......

thats all it takes.....its called gravity bleeding.....and dont forget to do the clutch as well.......same method.....but you need to open the nipple on the
slave cylinder......not the ones at the wheels......

the main thing is to keep the reservior topped up......if the level gets to the bottom of the reservior it will suck in air......and you will have no brakes.......

its best to use a brake fluid that is a different colour to what you have in there.....
so you can tell when the new stuff has flushed out all the old stuff by simply watching for the colour change at the bleed nipple.....

and use the correct grade of fluid from a sealed container.....it should be DOT4 from memory......



the other adjustment on the car is the handbrake......there is a bolt on the drum....turn it till it locks the drum.....
then back it off till the drum is able to turn again.....and see how far up the handbrake lever comes up.....

you will need to have the thing in neutral with one of the back wheels in the air to do this.....or the drum wont turn.....

also.....its best done with the handbrake off.....so make sure you have both front wheels chocked for safety.....
and never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack......

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

.....it should be DOT4 from memory......





[/SIZE][/SIZE]

Correct ......it MUST be at least DOT4 .......NOT DOT 3 [too low a boiling point for disc brakes ] and NOT DOT 5 [Silicon based fluid - too viscous ] ......

But it is preferable to get the newer specification "SUPER DOT 4" [it's much less hygroscopic - thus having a longer useful full spec service life , B.P remains the same though ]

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

if you can suck the old fluid from the reservoir it makes it easier.......
if not it doesnt matter........

start with the lefthand side and loosen the front and rear nipples so that the fluid starts flowing out........
or you can just do 1 at a time.....in this order.....LHR....RHR......LHF.....RHF.....


here is a step with a bit of importance........
NEVER LET THE RESERVOIR RUN OUT OF BRAKE FLUID.......!!!!!!!

or you will take forever to bleed the system properly again......
so....all that means is keep the reservoir topped up as it drains from the bleed nipples.....

when you have clean fluid coming from the nipples...close them and repeat for the righthand side.....

when you have finished......start with the LHR nipple and open it till there is clean fluid coming out.....
there mustnt be any bubbles or airgaps in the dribble....then close it again....this should only take less than 5 seconds for this step.....
then repeat for RHR......
then LHF......
and finally RHF......

now.....before you even start the engine....make sure you still have a brake pedal......
its no use jumping in starting it and throwing it into gear......only to find the pedal hits the floor as you are
reversing out your drive and gaining speed.......

thats all it takes.....its called gravity bleeding.....and dont forget to do the clutch as well.......same method.....but you need to open the nipple on the
slave cylinder......not the ones at the wheels......

the main thing is to keep the reservior topped up......if the level gets to the bottom of the reservior it will suck in air......and you will have no brakes.......

its best to use a brake fluid that is a different colour to what you have in there.....
so you can tell when the new stuff has flushed out all the old stuff by simply watching for the colour change at the bleed nipple.....

and use the correct grade of fluid from a sealed container.....it should be DOT4 from memory......



the other adjustment on the car is the handbrake......there is a bolt on the drum....turn it till it locks the drum.....
then back it off till the drum is able to turn again.....and see how far up the handbrake lever comes up.....

you will need to have the thing in neutral with one of the back wheels in the air to do this.....or the drum wont turn.....

also.....its best done with the handbrake off.....so make sure you have both front wheels chocked for safety.....
and never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack......

so you dont havt to pump the pedal for ever first or have the pedal compressed when you crack the nipple?? IE, its a one man job.

thats the way i change my brake fluid......

and all the other different types of cars as well......

every now and then you will get one that doesnt want to copoerate......
ie...you crack the bleed nipple and nothing comes out......on these i just slowly press the pedal
a few times to get it started......only half pumps.......

but yours should just drip out without any probs......

Hi Tony
THANKS HEAPS
I wasnt game to tackle a brake fluid change due to the ABS etc,but after reading this Im confident of having a go.
Will get some fluid and have a go.
Andrew