Thread: crank case pressure

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Hi Cazzz
If I was you I would make the motor WORK to bed it in.
Find a BIG hill,Greenmount or Bedfordale whichever is closest.
Run the hill in TOP gear,but start off with VERY low revs so it wants to stall,when you get to the top start again and then go again.
It should help.
Andrew

Help or hinder, Im pretty sure if there is something wrong with how the engines been built then thats the way to find out as it will deffinatly let go.

Just a few questions,

1. does it use lots of oil, new engines generally use a bit but not a terrible amount.

2. Does it run hotter than normal, the same rule applys little bit is normal but a lot is something wrong.

3. Has it lost or gained power since the blow by became apparent.

4.when did the blowby become apparent.

5. do you run an upper clyinder lube kit e.g. moreys etc

6 has it blown the dipstick out yet (long story)

If it was straight away then I would say rings have been insalled incorrectly but once they are in they rarely turn at different rates.

It could be slipped liners or blown head gasket/s from incorrect installation or tensioning down.

Your breathers (im not a landy V8 owner or expert) should be on your rocker covers and feed through a PCV into the intake manifold.

I would be onto the bloke who built it as blaming LPG is a cop out if they didn't specify it had to be run in on juice.

Originally Posted by cazzz12000

Hi guys rebuilt my motor about 8000k ago 3.5 out to 3.9 and as told by kevin at rover tech that i have crank case pressure but hewasn't to concerned when I told him it had not been run in on petrol but used lpg.Wasn't told that this could bee bad thing.So what problems can it cause and will it right its self if I run on petrol instead of lpg or how else can it be sorted thanks Zacc

LPG doesn't "Carbon" up like a petrol engine, the carbon grit produced by petrol engines actually helps seating in of the rings, if you dont run the engine in properly the cross hatch honing pattern on the surface of the bores gets worn away prematurely and the bores glaze up, they become very smooth and wont hold lubricating oil for the rings and pistons, so even more wear. When running in a new engine the revs should be kept up and dont let the engine cruise, the motor should be working harder than normal, WHY, because the rings are pushed outwards from the piston and hard into the bore, no bore is perfectly round as no ring is either, so expanding gasses from the combustion of the fuel go down the side of the piston and behind the step on the compression ring and push it hard against the bore, creating a gas tight seal. So the harder the ring is pushed into the bore the quicker the bore and the ring conform to one anothers shape, hence making a good seal. You need to keep the engine working, go back a gear if you have to to get the revs up, do not go on a leisurely cruise on the freeway at a constant speed, vary your speed up and down, when on overun down a hill and stopping go back thru the gears. You may have to remove your pistons and use a ball hone to restore the bore finish (cross hatch pattern), rings are a lot harder than the bore (Chrome-Moly) so they should be ok, remember when running it in, give it heaps and dont use Synthetic oil, can once motor is run in, Regards Frank.

I wish I'd known about running in a new engine on petrol. This one in my P38A has been run dual fuel since it was fitted.

Ron

I see you have a Tdi in your sig........is she a good'n?

Are you gettin rid of the P38...........finally?

Originally Posted by D110V8D

I see you have a Tdi in your sig........is she a good'n?

Are you gettin rid of the P38...........finally?

1. See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=35266 - bought it today.

2. Not yet.

Ron

thankS for the info guys,Rover tech didn't do the work have just been to see him for other problems but he did say if I ran on petrol no gas it would sort itself ,I always use penright hpr 30 oil so no synthetic and have been driving it up and low revs brookton hwy an bedfordale hill and driving around in 3(auto)gear and giving it a bit of stick andit hasn't seemed to use much oil at all and the temp sits exactly were it should hardly moves even with air on

No I don't use upper cylinder lube and it better not be slipped liners as this is what started the whole exercise to begin with and going to do a compression test this weekend so we'll see what happens thanks again Zacc

Hi guys just did compression test cyliders 135246 got 150psi and on 7 got 145& 8 140 psi have also had 30 thou taken off the heads do the readings seem alright?Gunna do another test in a couple of weeks or is that to long? thanks Zacc