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Thread: Help required re light force 170 spots

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRS View Post
    Original relay is 30 amp.

    I will look for new relay tomorrow.

    Do tyou think I should look for 40 amp?
    The 30 should do, but maybe with the time/fuse sizes it may have phased the relay and it/they get weak/tired and even burn internal connections together. The 30 may just be ratted

    The wire sizing was done by the people you bought the lamps from - so one would hope that they are the right size.

    You have checked that there are no shorts, no poor earth - poor earth connections are the main cause for auto electic faults, remove the earth for the lights - clean everything then tighten them down real tight, then pop a bit of vasaline over them.

  2. #12
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    Will do.
    Nothing like a good weekend challange.

    Thanks again guys

  3. #13
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    the new era copes just fine with my 170 lightforce(s) and i have heavy cable on them....
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by incisor View Post
    the new era copes just fine with my 170 lightforce(s) and i have heavy cable on them....
    Yes undersized cables/wires can cause heat related problems, when indoubt always go up a size in cable/wire.

    Poor earth will also cause heat related problems, can cause relays to 'rattle' and either fuse together or burn out.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRS View Post
    spotties are 2 x 100w
    Fuse that has worked up until now was 15amp.
    I also tried a 20amp whcih also blew.

    It looks like I should run two relays, one for each. You think that if the supplier supplies a loom for the lights it would be suitable. May be I should send email to lightforce?

    Thanks for all replies.
    Most "standard" relays for these are rated at 30 Amps.......my calculator says you 2 x 100 W spots draw16 Amps total so the relay can handle the two of them Ok.....and a 20 Amp fuse should be Ok for protection.

    Look for corrosion build up through out the cicuit, especially the grounds.

  6. #16
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    Hi DRS, just start with using a 20 or 25 amp fuse but make sure your cabling is up to the job.

    BTW this is not a plug to get you to buy new cabling, as long as you have used the wire loom that came with the lights, you should be right.

    Cheers.

  7. #17
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    You can sometimes tell what sort of fault it is by the way the fuse has blown.

    If you put a new fuse in and it goes with a "crack" this normally indicates a dead short somewhere.

    Someone once told me ( never tried it ) that for fault finding shorts, wire in a headlight bulb ( ie in series and in place of the fuse ) . When the short occurs the bulb will glow but the bulb inherently limits the current flowing too.. Saves blowing many fuses to find the problem. As I say sounds plausible but never tried it.
    Last edited by waynep; 8th March 2007 at 07:55 AM.

  8. #18
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    not sure on the 170s, but on the 240s and 140s they have that leetle skeeny wiring coming out of the light mount,perhaps a break in there??Also as they dont have a designated neg or pos wire,(you can use either) that may have something to do with it.???
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  9. #19
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    Spoke to lightforce. The fuse they stated is supplied is a thirty amp fuse. I change the fuse and also changed to a 40 amp relay. All good again.
    Thanks for the input. Will also clean earth contacts.
    DRS

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