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Thread: Pinion seal replacement - Disco

  1. 14th March 2007, 03:57 PM #1
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    Pinion seal replacement - Disco

    Howdy all. The Disco has blown a pinion seal - the rear to be precise.

    Is this an easy job to do under the car? I gather the hardest bit will be breaking the drive flange nut on the pinion shaft, but I have some strong angle iron I can use to make a gripping tool with.

    While I'm at it I think I'll do the front too.

    Also, anyone know the part number for the swivel seals? Got a weepy one and I want to replace both sides at the same time. Also considering going to oil fed wheel bearings, so I'll be getting some of the RTC3511 seals at the same time.
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  2. 14th March 2007, 06:09 PM #2
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    I recently had my rear seal changed and watched while it was done. Mechanic mentioned that he gets many calls from people trying to do it themselves who get stuck because of a particular collar that sits in behind the seal. He had a special tool for the job, basically a hook with a metal sleeve at the handle end that was slid back & fwd to dislodge the collar, like hammering in reverse.
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  3. 14th March 2007, 08:07 PM #3
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    i did mine with the help of a mate, a rattle gun is the go to tget the nut of and back on, i only did the seal and left the crushtube thingy inplace, the shop that i brought the seal off idicated that all i needed to do was do the nut up a fraction more

    just remember to mark the nut and the flange with a centre punch mark before removing this way you knowwhen to stop when doing it up

    10-15K on no problems
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  4. 15th March 2007, 06:45 AM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    i did mine with the help of a mate, a rattle gun is the go to tget the nut of and back on, i only did the seal and left the crushtube thingy inplace, the shop that i brought the seal off idicated that all i needed to do was do the nut up a fraction more

    just remember to mark the nut and the flange with a centre punch mark before removing this way you knowwhen to stop when doing it up
    Not on a Discovery you don't...

    That's the procedure for the Salisbury... The Disco is even easier.

    The only thing I'd suggest you also look at is to make sure that the axle breather isn't blocked too...

    HTH

    M
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  5. 15th March 2007, 07:46 AM #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterM View Post
    I recently had my rear seal changed and watched while it was done. Mechanic mentioned that he gets many calls from people trying to do it themselves who get stuck because of a particular collar that sits in behind the seal. He had a special tool for the job, basically a hook with a metal sleeve at the handle end that was slid back & fwd to dislodge the collar, like hammering in reverse.
    MacMan won't (shouldn't) have the rubber coupling type rear prop shaft like yours so it should be a relatively simple job to remove the flange.
    Check the flange for wear too (scoring).

    The swivel seals are FTC3401.
    Scott
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  6. 30th April 2007, 09:13 AM #6
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    Well I did the job on the seals over the weekend. I was filthy by the time I'd done the rear and had a closer look at the front only to find that was leaking too. Glad I bought two seals!

    What a bastard of a job. I've decided that if I ever build a house I'm going to put in a hoist or a work pit. I'm too big to be swinging spanners under things.

    The rear was a proper bastard of a job. I had to cut the prop shaft bolts off. I don't think they had been touched since the original owner put the locker at the time he bought the Disco new. Access to the nuts means that you can only use an open ended spanner and the nuts all rounded out. The next ordeal was trying to find some 3/8UNF nylock nuts and replacement bolts on a weekend. Had a bloke at Bursons tell me nobody has asked him for any for 5 years! At least Saturday was nice motorcycling weather and it made up for the 3 hours of running around.

    Removal of the seal was done with a range of different sized open ended spanners, with one side of the open end hooked in behind the seal. Both turned out to be leaking because the seal control springs were broken. I drifted the new ones in using the drive flange flipped around and a rubber mallet.

    There was next to no wear on the flanges and in the 20 or so km since fixing them both are nice and dry.

    Advice to anyone doing it for the first time? Buy two seals, and enough bolts and nuts to replace everything. Seems kind of obvious now!

    Also spent a truck load of time doing other stuff...
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