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18th March 2007, 07:35 AM
#11
From what you have said, your clutch fork may have worn through at the rod seat (a known problem). The forks are only pressed metal.
If it did wear through, the travel of the piston in the slave cyl would not be limited and could blow out.
If you have to replace the fork, consider welding a thick washer on the other side of the seat for the rod, to build up the thickness. A common mod for these clutch forks.
I think (not sure) I may have a spare clutch fork. So yell out if you need one.
Good luck
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18th March 2007, 10:35 AM
#12
I have just gone through this problem with my 110 clutch. I had the wrong clutch release bearing and the push rod fell out into the housing and the piston popped out as well.
Only way in was to pull the gearbox back supporting gearbox with engine hoist through cab floor. Someone had a good picture of this setup. With the gearbox far enough back I put a block of wood between the engine and gearbox just incase it snapped back and took my hand off.
This means you can get in there and inspect the fork as mentioned and then a good tip mentioned again on this forum to cable tie the rod onto the push fork.
Have a look at the thread 'help needed on clutch for 110' 15th Feb.
And yes its a pain in the rear end moving the gearbox. I ended up having to do it twice as I had the wrong part!
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18th March 2007, 11:06 AM
#13
Well if i'm going in i'll do it all while i'm there, Clutch(300k old), fork, oil seals, flywheel, bearings. Hopefully i won't have to go back in for another 300k.
Anything else i should change while i'm there.
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18th March 2007, 07:12 PM
#14
I don't know what seals you meant, but I would replace the rear crankshaft seal (make sure you read the instructions before taking the seal out of the packet.
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