Dual Batteries

**EchiDna** · 5th April 2007, 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by CraigE

Have not done the rear door. Had it apart yesterday to see if it would be viable, but as the rear door lock is set up completely different to the main doors it does not look viable.
Any one know any different???

my 110 had it from a previous owner...who kindly stripped out the actuators but left the wiring there... a bit of bracketing was put it to mount an actuator in position.

**CraigE** · 5th April 2007, 09:21 PM

Top stuff EchDna. Any idea how he wired it into the system? Is it just a matter of tapping it in to one of the other actuator/solenoids?

**EchiDna** · 5th April 2007, 10:08 PM

sorry can't help there, the control box was AWOL as well when i got it... but I've got a feeling there was a momentary switch to act as a release somewhere in the cab. buy yourself an actuator from a wrecker or whatever and have a try

the receipt for the system was from JB Hifi but it's not mentioned if there was 4 or 5 actuators in the pack - the wiring tells me 5 were mounted though.

**CraigE** · 5th April 2007, 11:12 PM

Will buy another set of actuators and play. Only $20-40 for a central locking kit and can use the rest for the 2 door Torana. Will just try linking them with one of the rear door slaves.
Once all sorted we should put thisin the technical bin for future reference.

Originally Posted by EchiDna

sorry can't help there, the control box was AWOL as well when i got it... but I've got a feeling there was a momentary switch to act as a release somewhere in the cab. buy yourself an actuator from a wrecker or whatever and have a try

the receipt for the system was from JB Hifi but it's not mentioned if there was 4 or 5 actuators in the pack - the wiring tells me 5 were mounted though.

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 5th April 2007, 11:51 PM

Originally Posted by CraigE

Have not done the rear door. Had it apart yesterday to see if it would be viable, but as the rear door lock is set up completely different to the main doors it does not look viable.
Any one know any different???
Also as the central locking is usually set up for four doors would have to work out how to tap in to one of the other actuators to start with.
The installation is fairly easy. The back doors require a bracket and the front doors screw straight to the panelling and will just fit but will push against the inside of the trim a bit with the solenoid bulge. Will take some pics next time I have the doors off. With the alarm unit and central locking gear behind the instrument panel and a lot of wirig it becomes quite crowded but will all fit. Have also installed extra motion sensors which adjust to the way the car is set up (windows open or closed).
Nice beingable to open all doors at once with a family. One thing to remember with the silly Defender locks you can not test the central locking with the front doors open.

try something from a later model fender....they have central doorlocking from the factory.......

simple solution.......open the back door and reach in and use the door lock button on the front door.......
this is also the method used to lock the vehicle if you dont have the keys......

**CraigE** · 6th April 2007, 01:55 AM

All in and working Zook, just the rear 5th door to sort something our for.

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 6th April 2007, 09:07 AM

got any pics of the torana......?

**CraigE** · 6th April 2007, 11:28 AM

Yeah, got some old ones. Needs full restore now, hopefully soon. Will try and find some and post.

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 6th April 2007, 12:00 PM

sweet.....

JamesH · 6th April 2007, 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi KhunMoo, two points about your post.

If your cranking battery, for what ever reason, ends up flat, then yes it would be nice to turn a switch and start off the other battery BUT the operation you described of switching from one battery to the other should only be done with the motor OFF and the best way to connect or disconnect the second battery while the motor is running is with an on / off battery switch connecting the auxiliary battery to the cranking battery, so that the cranking battery itself is NEVER disconnected from the alternator while the motor is running. This is one sure fired way to stuff the alternator.

My system is similar to KhunMoo's but it has a simple two way switch A, A+B. Running the car on B only is not a problem (both A & B are normal cranking batteries). The thing that leaves me uneasy about it is that EVERYTHING is connected to the main cranking battery even the 12v plug in the back. I'd like to at least have the rear plug attached to battery B. When I had the car at an auto-electrician getting a new clamp for the batteries and a new switch that wore out I asked them to re-wire the back plug to battery B but he talked me out of it. He said the system I have is nice and simple and apart from the switch wearing out is bullet-proof. If you are disciplined about isolating the B battery when pulling up to camp, you always know where you stand with it. You have one fully charged battery sitting there ready to start your car in the morning.

Anyway for 99% of the time the switch is set to A+B so both batteries crank the car, it's only when I have the fridge in the back I ever isolate.

I fear flat batteries in the bush more than I fear crocs and king browns...

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