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Thread: Timing Belt

  1. #1
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    Timing Belt

    I have a S1 300TDI the timing belt was last done 70K ago, I am having my water pump replaced would it be an opportune time to replace the timing belt and is there any saving in labour or wait until 80K. I do about 8000 km a year and leave the belt for next year.

    What is the cost of the having the belt replaced nowadays?

    Thanks in Advance
    Cool95

  2. #2
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    I heard that LR are now recommending a change at 60,000k so it would probably be a good idea to have it done. The only real thing in common with the water pump job is that the hoses and belts need to come off for both.

    I think the cost of just having the belt done is around the $450 mark. If you need upgrade kits it is considerably more. Make sure you get somone that knows what they are doing- if they stuff up the timing even a little bit your performance will suffer.
    Last edited by waynep; 5th April 2007 at 07:46 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynep View Post
    I heard that LR are now recommending a change at 60,000k so it would probably be a good idea to have it done. The only real thing in common with the water pump job is that the hoses and belts need to come off for both.
    60,000 thats nuts .

    When I first got my car about 6 or 7 years ago the timing belt mod had not been done on mine and I wasn't that mechanical nor even knew what the timing belt was.
    The car was on its 1st timing belt (un-modded)... 110,000kms.

    When they took it off to change and do the mod I had a look at the old one, it was in very good condition.

    That said, I'll still be changing mine when its done 80,000

    Cool95, if my belt was at 70K and the pump needed doing i would do the lot (pump, belt and radiator rodded).

  4. #4
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    Whether you change the belt at 60, 70 or 100k isn't the issue. It has a lot to do with the kind of driving. I've read elsewhere on this forum that timing belt wear increases exponentially with engine revs. This person suggested avoiding revving above 300rpm. It makes sense.

    The other thing to consider are other associated timing components. I have nearly clocked up 400,000km and have changed belts every 100k. I had one 'professional' mob do it and they stuffed it bad (quite a drama to get sorted) - no engine damage. The 300k belt failed at 320k because the IDLER (not Tension) Bearing collapsed and the belt jumped 3 sprockets. I could barely drive it home and the resultant damage was bent pushrods and cracked lashcaps (I think I got off cheaply) .... SO I'm suggesting to everyone that at every SECOND belt change that you have the idler bearing replaced as well. I think the tensioner is part of the kit and gets replaced each time with the belt.

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    Just had mine done by British Parts in Welshpool, WA. I gave them the full upgrade kit which I bught on my last UK trip (Though it turned out mine had had it done already, but they still used all but one of the parts in the kit anyway), and their labour charge for the job was $254 including a few other minor bits and pieces and checking out some other faults. I thought that was very reasonable. Can't see just the belt adding much to the cost either, though I was amazed at how expensive the kit is over here if you need one.
    Jeff

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  6. #6
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    Mine cost 700 to get done just before xmas( see qld suppliers list) money well spent, especially when an expert does it.


    john

  7. #7
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    didn't read ralphs, when I had mine done, they do the lot for that very reason, then you know it is all hunky dory.


    john

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    I'e just had mine done with the full kit. The idler bearings were getting noisy. The belt looked perfect. It had, according to the sticker under the bonnet, been done 60,000km previously.

    They showed me the lower toothed pulley and it had a thinner "rim" than the replacement which was quite thick in comparison.

    I can't give a useful price as they did some other work plus mine took a lot longer owing to the fact that the pulley and harmonic balancer had been Loctited on and wouldn'r budge with the pullers. They had to be heated with an oxy to get them to move albeit slowly and with great difficulty.

    I know how long it took - I was working on the car at the same time doing some oither things.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph View Post
    This person suggested avoiding revving above 300rpm. It makes sense.
    wow, if thats top RPM bet its a doddle to time at idle, you could just about do it by eyeball...

    and hes right increasing rpm exponentially increases the wear rate of the belt.

    personally change it while the front of the engine is getting worked on anyway and if the old one is in good nick keep it as a stand by, as they are a square top block, providing your good with the tools and have a little luck on your side the tdi can be made to run again (albeit roughly) by replacing the belt and doing some side of the road work in an emergancy.
    +
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