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Thread: swapping gearbox what do I need and ...

  1. #1
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    swapping gearbox what do I need and ...

    Hi All

    I going to have a go at removing the gearbox in my RR, (81’),and replacing it, this weekend.
    So I would like to know what stuff I will need as in gaskets, sealant or whatever.
    I know I’ll need some oil but what else?
    Oh maybe mounts if they are looking worn.
    Hmm a hoist would be useful too.


    Also as this for me is major surgery are the any other minor jobs thats worth doing at the same time. I don’t mean “ as it’s out strip and re-build the gearbox” just stuff that would be a real pain in the a$$ if I have to do them and the box is back in. The only obvious thing I can think of is the clutch plate.


    Ta
    Steve

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Why are you taking it out - replacing the box?

    Clutch, and pressure plate while it is out - possibly the clutch withdrawal fork and the release bearing, pilot bearing. Output shaft seals can be replaced in situ, but probably a bit easier with the box out, u-joints if necessary since you have one end of the shafts off, but I wouldn't do them unless needed.

    That gearbox/transfer case is HEAVY and awkward - I think the approved way of lifting it is with a special frame to give a horizontal base to jack on. Be careful!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    hi thanks for that
    I don't know what half that stuff is so I best get reading up

    I'm swapping it firstly because it has no reverse gear, it's just not "there".
    But it's always been a very loose gearbox ie lots of side to side movement with the stick while in gear and it's always crunched now and again in third gear. I Some times find it hard to get fourth gear too even with the pedal fully depressed. I have to pause in neautral then go to fourth which is sometimes bloody awkward and dangerous.
    Plus I got a replacement gearbox for next to nothing.


    As for the removal I was going to do it in the garage which has a flat floor and hire a engine hoist. One of those portable things on wheels.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    As for the removal I was going to do it in the garage which has a flat floor and hire a engine hoist. One of those portable things on wheels.
    er... are you going to hoist the car or the transmission? pretty hard to hoist the transmission through the floor ... but you might be able to lower it by connecting through the middle access panel in the seat box?? anyone done this?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by EchiDna View Post
    er... are you going to hoist the car or the transmission? pretty hard to hoist the transmission through the floor ... but you might be able to lower it by connecting through the middle access panel in the seat box?? anyone done this?
    That's why you remove the floor

  6. #6
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    well the "Book" says remove the floor and take it up and out.
    I have been told it's possble to drop it down to the floor then jack the RR a bit to get it out.
    So it's either up or down and sideways.

    Not sure which is easier yet.

  7. #7
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    Removing the floor and using an engine crane IS easier....yet more time consuming, if it were an LT77 or R380 I'd recommend doing it from underneath as you can split the box and transer upon assembly

    But being an LT95, If it was just removal underneath is the go, also if you'd had experience underneath is manageable, but seeing as you don't a floor removal is probably best.....just remember when the floor doesn't come out, there is 2 bolts from the firewall behind the motor which are a right **** to get out ......LEAVE THEM OUT, unless they have been already, upon assembly

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    Removing the floor and using an engine crane IS easier....yet more time consuming, if it were an LT77 or R380 I'd recommend doing it from underneath as you can split the box and transer upon assembly

    But being an LT95, If it was just removal underneath is the go, also if you'd had experience underneath is manageable, but seeing as you don't a floor removal is probably best.....just remember when the floor doesn't come out, there is 2 bolts from the firewall behind the motor which are a right **** to get out ......LEAVE THEM OUT, unless they have been already, upon assembly
    Remove the engine mounts and let the motor drop forward and then you can get your hand at the 2 top floor bolts.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  9. #9
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    Always check the rear main engine seal while the engine is out if it's weaping or leaking replace it as it can only be done with the gearbox out. Uni joints, hand brake shoes, pretty much look at anything you can while it's out - even the condition of wiring if its hard from heat replace.

    but it's a bit like how long is a piece of string - this is how my almost complete rebuild started the more I fixed the more I needed to fix while I was at it. This continued until bank balance looked dangerously low and landy still not worth any more than when I started.

    Still have to do more mods yet before I am happy

  10. #10
    lokka Guest
    Id be doin it motor and box together with an engin crane as the engin works well as a counter ballance to make the box come out easy and the removable crossmember will have to come out if you were to take the box out from under the truck anyway as for doin it through the cab **** that its prolly easier to lift the whole ****in body off tha chasis than remove the floorpan ....

    My 2 cents worth

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