Thread: engel fridge causing trouble

Landy Andy
I have what i think is one of those diodes?? that is suppossed to allow charging to the second battery but not allow it to drain the first battery.
I could isolate the starting battery but the isolating switch is wired into this which makes it a bit of a task as both batteries are under the seat.

Phillip A
The fridge is connected to the deep cycle battery as i did this myself.

Utemad
Yes i let it charge up plenty. No difference

Isuzurover
I thought the same so i swapped the wire to the other battery. No difference

It looks more and more like the second battery system may be at fault.
As i said earlier the main battery was showing 14V and it didn,t make any diff which batt the starter was run to.

In a previous life when i had a hilux the starter motor was stuffed and it acted just like it had a flat battery.

Originally Posted by hagus

Yes i let it charge up plenty. No difference

Have you actually checked the voltages with a multimeter though when you have let it charge up?

I could isolate the starting battery but it is a pain because it is wired through the isolator and there is not much room to move without pulling both batteries out. Th fridge is definately connected to the deep cycle battery as i did this myself. As i understand the system the second battery should not be able to be drawn on through the diode?? at all. It allows charging one way and no current back the other.
isuzurover i thought the same and it lookrd to me as if the connection was wrong. After changing it over it made no difference even though the starter wire was hooked to the battery which was reading 14V on the multi meter.
Looks to me like it is beyond the expertise of a builder! Need to track down that auto electricians and get it checked out.

Thought i lost last reply. Sorry.

Yes it was reading 12-13V. This is the frustrating thing it doesn,t make sense.
After tow starting i drove 500metres turned it off and it started no trouble until some months later when the fridge thing happened again.

We need input from Drivesafe!!!!
Andrew

I've never heard of an isolator that just uses a diode. I wouldn't have thought you get one rated high enough anyway.

If you could find out the brand and/or name of the isolator then I'm sure someone who has one or has installed one could give you more help if it is the isolator.

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Im wondreing if the flat deep cycle is drawing too much power from the main battery whilst cranking and not alowing the starter motor to crank.
Are you able to isolate the second battery during the start proceedure????
Andrew

Im going to follow this idea and the proof is fairly simple and depending on your battery location might even be a permamant fixture.

After checking all the earths and primary positve connections

grab yourself one of those battery connectors with the "turn to make/break" switch in it.. Put it on the positive side of the second battery, when you go to start it turn this off, if that solves the problem then your second battery is drawing down your start battery.

If this solves the problem then Im sure drivesafe has a more detailed answer on a long term solution.

I had the same trouble many years ago and turfed the diode isolator in the end ,and used one of those key type battery isolators blknight described. Problem solved.- as long as you remember to use it .
It seemed to me at the time that when I hit the ignition key the second -flat- battery took all the amps out of the first (original) battery and once (if) the engine started the charge coming the other way seemed to stop it doing it again. This gels with all the symptoms you have.
I would recommend you put the multimetre on the starter motor when you crank it over or as bl says isolate the second battery entirely.
Let us know will you, its not often we hear back once someones problem is solved.