Thread: Wheel bearings, Stub axles and Ignorance

the part the seal runs on is a replaceable collar (on my old disco anyway) but with a clean up that one should be fine, just radius the square shoulder of the seal collar slightly so the new seal doesn't get buggered when you slide the hub onto the stub

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

depends how many ks your doing....

Mine get a caps off inspect every 25k km, and replaced at 50k,km Ujs are on the same intervals for replacemnet atm, the deefers not eating them as much as my series rovers used to (but then they got hammered offroad and for fording)

Water is a killer, grease is your best friend!

Originally Posted by camel_landy

In that case... Use a bit of emery to finish off where you've been at it with the file and re-assemble.

M

Okay, thanks 'M'. I'm assuming emery = fine sandpaper say 400 wetndry?

Originally Posted by jimbo110

the part the seal runs on is a replaceable collar...

I'm 99% sure it's all one piece. But that doesn't mean much.

Originally Posted by jimbo110

...just radius the square shoulder of the seal collar slightly...

You're getting a bit technical for me but I think I get the idea.

Hi dave, that one looks fine, landychicks was the same and we cleaned it up and back on it went. The oil/grease seal runs on the shoulder above where the bearing taps back to, is that surface damaged? If it is smooth it back as suggested so the oil/grease seal doesnt wear prematurely.

Emery paper is like sand paper, but its a dark brown colour and is used on metal, black we/dry paper will do the same job. Matt

How did they get like that, how long has it been since they were greased/checked?

Oh, its not a replacable collar on the disco its all one peice as you said dave.

Originally Posted by Ace

Hi dave, that one looks fine, landychicks was the same and we cleaned it up and back on it went. The oil/grease seal runs on the shoulder above where the bearing taps back to, is that surface damaged? If it is smooth it back as suggested so the oil/grease seal doesnt wear prematurely.

Emery paper is like sand paper, but its a dark brown colour and is used on metal, black we/dry paper will do the same job. Matt

How did they get like that, how long has it been since they were greased/checked?

Thanks for the explanation Matt.
The rear wheel bearings were re-greased by myself back in November when my mechanic warned me of water contamination in all the hubs. He did the front hubs and I did the rears but as you can tell I didn't really know all the things to look out for and may not have packed the bearings well enough. When I took the hub apart there was still evidence of water getting in (rust on the hub lock nut) but I had only used the paper gasket - this time I've used the paper gasket and a bead of gasket sealant.
The other side was swimming in diff oil so I've re-greased those bearings as well and replaced the hub oil seal. I didn't have a stub-axle oil seal so it will just have to do. Topped up the diff and I'm rolling again!

After a 25Km trip this afternoon both rear hubs are warm, ~45C at the axle flanges, but that could be coming from the disc brakes which were warmer.
Now all I have to do is work out why my power steering pump pulley is moving out of alignment and chewing the drive belt and things will be back to normal.

Originally Posted by DiscoDave

Thanks for the explanation Matt.
The rear wheel bearings were re-greased by myself back in November when my mechanic warned me of water contamination in all the hubs. He did the front hubs and I did the rears but as you can tell I didn't really know all the things to look out for and may not have packed the bearings well enough. When I took the hub apart there was still evidence of water getting in (rust on the hub lock nut) but I had only used the paper gasket - this time I've used the paper gasket and a bead of gasket sealant.
The other side was swimming in diff oil so I've re-greased those bearings as well and replaced the hub oil seal. I didn't have a stub-axle oil seal so it will just have to do. Topped up the diff and I'm rolling again!

After a 25Km trip this afternoon both rear hubs are warm, ~45C at the axle flanges, but that could be coming from the disc brakes which were warmer.
Now all I have to do is work out why my power steering pump pulley is moving out of alignment and chewing the drive belt and things will be back to normal.

Could it be that you didn't seat the bearing completely when you put it on then tightened down on it with the bearing skew to the cup?

Cheers
Simon

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Could it be that you didn't seat the bearing completely when you put it on then tightened down on it with the bearing skew to the cup?

Cheers
Simon

It's possible I suppose but the wheel rotated freely enough at the time and gave me no problems for 5 months. I've realised I'd been wondering about the amount of 'road noise' I'd been hearing for a few days before the bearing packed up so that must have been it on the way out.