Thread: Castor Correction - swivels or radius arms

draw the arm on bench (trace around.)

Draw in top 75mm higher.( chassy mount)

bend to suit.

end result is castor correct.

neutral arm location in chasy bush.



Michael.

Sounds too easy il have to give it a go thanks for the pic

Les Richmond Automotive do a correction at the swivel hub which seems a lot more sensible.
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/100.html

Arn't there legal issues with heating and bending certain components?

yep but I tyhink you wil find indexing swivell housing to have same issues, just not as easy to find.

MIchael.

I have already fitted both front and rear d/c shafts to get rid of most of the vibrations

you must have some serious vibration issues to go to all that trouble!
im running 150mm bumpstop clearance f&R, still have the std td5 front drive shaft and have lengthened another front for the rear, all with big chunky MT117sports. 140kph and still no vibes at all.

ide go the slotted swivells, i now have anywhere between -1deg to +12deg.

cheers phil

bit hard to see but there isnt much angle on my front bushes.


cheers phil

Originally Posted by discowhite

you must have some serious vibration issues to go to all that trouble!
im running 150mm bumpstop clearance f&R, still have the std td5 front drive shaft and have lengthened another front for the rear, all with big chunky MT117sports. 140kph and still no vibes at all.

It all depends on what vibs you are trying to get rid off!! I didnt have any noticable vibs running JT2's either but when you have normal m/t's on you notice the driveshafts - especially the front one!! My front radius bushes are about the same as yours - what sort of angle is the bottom mount for the front shock on??

Originally Posted by HSVRangie

No I have cranked arms on my RR.

they shrunk about 1-2 mm.

Fit 2m washer and all is good.

Michael.

^thats how id do it on the cheap.