Thread: What a racket!!! Help needed!

Is the noise coming from the engine , or maybe the torque converter. Ring gear bolts etc.

Has the timing belt mod been done??
Justin

Originally Posted by Pierre

Handbrake started the Disco (97 300tdi auto, engine distance 100K) last Saturday morning and the thing sounded all clangy like big end bearings had left the country.


. At about 1600 rpm or so, the vibration/noise goes away with just a hint of a harmonic from time to time. No overheating, no lights - just this noise....

Any hints from anyone before I have to look deeply into its eyes, with a green needle in hand....

If it was big ends or mains it would not go away 1600rpm. Sounds to me like your torque convertor drive plate(flex plate) has stuffed up.

Cheers keith

Thanks for the reply, Justin. All the front end of the engine has checked out OK. New cam belt, 4095L upgrade 2002, all the tensioner rollers OK, crank nose OK, crank pulley OK, no keyway damage and everything's tight and leakproofed (as far as poss!).

With auto, where could the flex plate break? Perhaps torque converter - next I'll remove the TC bolts, push it back and start the engine - at least I'll isolate the area! Otherwise, Handbrake will put me in one of these!



Pete

The flex plates have a habit of cracking and it does sound like the bottom end of the engine is falling out

Cheers, Keith. I'll report on the next phase tomorrow. Bundy time.

Pete

I have what sounds like exactly the same problem. I suspect the flex plate. Flex to Torque con bolts are tight and what I can see of the flexplate looks good. Very Loud rattle with frequent very loud banging knocking noise goes away when you put it in gear and drive the car ,comes back in to some extent on overrun.

Originally Posted by Pierre

Thanks for the reply, Justin. All the front end of the engine has checked out OK. New cam belt, 4095L upgrade 2002, all the tensioner rollers OK, crank nose OK, crank pulley OK, no keyway damage and everything's tight and leakproofed (as far as poss!).

With auto, where could the flex plate break? Perhaps torque converter - next I'll remove the TC bolts, push it back and start the engine - at least I'll isolate the area! Otherwise, Handbrake will put me in one of these!



Pete

bad plan mate, if your going to the effort of getting it far enough apart to get to them youre better off pulling the box and TC out entirely... which should nicely reveal a fracture of the plate... If you run it up without the tc connected and its fractured (murphy states) it'll fling itself apart and shred things your rather not have shredded.


While youve got the box out might as well drop the sump and eyeball the bottom ends, and while your doing that why not go the rear main depending on Kms done?

Dont run it with the TC un bolted as the weight is nessesary to make the engine run properly and smoothly.

The flex plates do break and cost around $600 for a new one and only put a new one on as a s/h one will fail near on straight away garenteed.

Lift out the engine or pull back the trans and it's 6 or 8 bolts (cant remember off hand) to replace but it can take up to 2 or 3 weeks to get a flex plate as LR dont hold them in stock half the time.

There is an upgrade that the new one will have, and dont be tempted to get it going by welding it as they are spring steel and if you heat them they will fail.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but im waiting for mine to go as well.

The reason that it went on start up is because the starter motor puts a crap load of torgue throw the flex plate to start the engine so this is when they tend to go.

The last one that my mate did for a guy that needed it doen quick smart so he supplied a S/H one himself lasted from bayswater to Jamison.