Thread: Rear Power Window - Fixed

Thanks for pointing this one out guys . It's a very simple fix and I've been frustrated with the initially intermitant non-operation of my rear windows (which became permanent recently) until I pulled the glove box off yesterday.

The only thing to bear in mind with the photos off the discoweb site is that the location photo, being for a LH drive USA Disco is the mirror image of what you'll find in an Ozzie Disco. The controller is at the LH side of the glovebox opening and is sandwiched between the remote security module and what I think it is the cruise control.

It's impossible to pull out the entire module in its plastic case - I could see the front 2 studs to which it was afixed (¼" AF spanner required) but there is apparently one more behind the sound deadening on the firewall which is inaccessible.

As Rovernaut said, just slip a screwdriver between the front panel and the edge of the enclosure and pull gently on the plastic lip around one of the connectors and the front cover will fall off. Sliding out the PCB is a bit of a challenge as it fouls the lower edge of the glove box opening as it reaches the ¾-extracted point and you have to push the entire bracket towards the steering wheel a bit to give it clearance. Assembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly but it's much harder to get the PCB lined up in the slide-in guides putting it back in - cursing and swearing help enormously (best do this out of earshot of the kids!).

On my PCB only one of the tags on the relay (the high current contact) was dry-jointed and was obvious when I pushed on the relay - the solder lifted off the pad a little. Best to remove the old solder with a solder-sucker or wick and start afresh, btw.

The fault is not really a manufacture fault in my opinion. The bracket holding the module is not very robust and the whole unit must flap around and vibrate quite a bit when off road. The rear window relay is quite bulky and heavy and under this sort of vibration fatigue of the joint is inevitable. I'll see how it goes but if it fails again I'd be inclined to de-solder and remove the relay entirely, then glue it to the board before re-soldering it in place. I guess that makes the problem more of a design fault.

It's only a 20min repair if you've got a decent soldering iron and you remember to heat it up before you start.

Just following this thread, got the glovebox out and nothing looks familiar.

Mine is a D2a. There are 2 things that look like relays one behind the other. Am I looking at the right thing?